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Are you interested in building a rocket mass heater? What is holding you back?

 
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I would love to build a bell batch box at my place just a busy single mom with no time I have clay, lots of it, but would like to build a brick shorty with a bench out of bricks in my kitchen Some day! Who wants to help? we can make it a summer work shop 2026 Sagle Idaho
 
pollinator
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Thank you I will return.
 
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I think European style thermal mass stoves have a lot of metal,finished stone and tile exteriors.
Those stoves are well established, coming from kits, built from standardized parts and/or installed by experts.
We have similar standards for our metal box stoves.
Under those circumstances, expecting a super clean installation makes sense.



Rmh's can get to that level, but they are not there yet.
At current state I don't know how anyone who needs perfect directions and outcomes could handle building one.
The default core is masonry, the default finish is cob.
These materials are not as simplified as drywall and dimensional lumber.

If one has a preferred finish, I think it's pretty easily obtained.
A barrel can be completely covered in cob.
Surround the barrel  with a steel stud frame, skin that with concrete board, add furring strips if needed, finish as you see fit.
You will be able to use metal, finished stone, perhaps even wood( if the furring strips are thick enough)
You could use concrete block contain the cob/barrel and support the finish layer, but that is more work for old bodies like my own, and harder to disassemble.

Other styles of bell suffer from expensive materials needed for the upper walls and roof, though the latest cores seem to resolve this problem.


If do I ever manage to install a perfectly  plumb, square and cleanly finished rmh, it will be the the only plumb and square fixture in my 100 plus year old house.
Maybe that's why I don't worry over a perfect finish.
If I wanted match my homes existing fixtures, I would rescue the shell of a old piano and build my RMH into it.
 
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3 and a half Years in Ukraine and I FINALLY have a location and talented team to build Rocket Mass Heaters here in Kharkiv. BUT it needs to be portable. And we need to build these fast! Winter is nearly upon us and people will be freezing - life & limb - for lack of good heat... again! I'm looking at Paul's video collection, but these wooden benches and shippable cores are not very up to date. Can someone help me find the best current design for "shippable core"?

Also, given the lack of ducting pipe in Ukraine, I'd like to do the barrels-in-the-bench stratification method from the video collection if that's still viable. Please, can someone help me flesh out the best process my team? We want a style that we can mass produce in our workshop, then donate (along with our labor) to people and soldiers in need of genuine heat here, near the heavy fighting and major destruction of houses and infrastructure.

Thanks for any and all help Lighting a fire under this project!
 
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Leslie L Wilson wrote:3 and a half Years in Ukraine and I FINALLY have a location and talented team to build Rocket Mass Heaters here in Kharkiv. BUT it needs to be portable. And we need to build these fast! Winter is nearly upon us and people will be freezing - life & limb - for lack of good heat... again! I'm looking at Paul's video collection, but these wooden benches and shippable cores are not very up to date. Can someone help me find the best current design for "shippable core"?

Also, given the lack of ducting pipe in Ukraine, I'd like to do the barrels-in-the-bench stratification method from the video collection if that's still viable. Please, can someone help me flesh out the best process my team? We want a style that we can mass produce in our workshop, then donate (along with our labor) to people and soldiers in need of genuine heat here, near the heavy fighting and major destruction of houses and infrastructure.

Thanks for any and all help Lighting a fire under this project!



Maybe look here if you haven't already.

https://rocketheater.com/

Maybe they can help or give you some ideas.

Best luck!
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Leslie that link is to commercial sellers. We need to build our own... Ideally from war debris. These babies need to be cheap and mass produce able, ideally.

And no one ships to Ukraine in the middle of a war, not something like this.

pDF plans i could pay for if they fit our needs. But these systems are so in need of tweaking to fit unique situations and often different materials that I need expert advice. We don't have time and resources to tinker if someone already knows best solution.

The end of Paul's shippable core video talked about some next-gen ideas. I need to know how those sent and where the experts stand now on best approach to portable/movable systems.
 
master rocket scientist
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Hi Leslie
I am assuming that you know the different size J-Tube dimensions.
If not, we can easily give them to you.
You may find that a K-Tube design works better for you.

As these are temporary stoves to save lives, there is no reason not to quickly weld them up from metal.
The half-barrel stratification chamber is extremely easy to throw together and quickly packed up if you need to vacate.
Mud of any type can be used as well as any large stones, metal items, bricks, or anything else that remains in the area.
 
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Good heater should be efficient and it's efficient when it has mass to store exhaust heat. Without that it' just a less or more complicated bonfire. There are various methods of efficient combustion - a long fi 300 pipe lined with clay will be an excellent firebox. I would suggest to focus the design on the exhaust energy storage that can be quickly built with what is available. Usually the most ubiquitous material is dirt and some plant fiber.
You could just prefabricate the L-shaped core. It would not be too heavy, so it could be shipped together with a top plate.
Then the client would need to line it (or not - for ultimate simplicity at the price of shorter lifespan) with clay and build a dirt bell around it with top plate on top that would:
-make a ceiling - the most complicated part in any masonry structure
-quickly radiate heat at the beginning of combustion
-could be used for cooking

I can not imagine anything simpler having thermal mass and built with limited material availibility.
If the client has an access to some tank/barrel then it could be also used as a substrate for clay but would require metal cutting.
 
Leslie L Wilson
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Leslie
I am assuming that you know the different size J-Tube dimensions.
If not, we can easily give them to you.
You may find that a K-Tube design works better for you.

As these are temporary stoves to save lives, there is no reason not to quickly weld them up from metal.
The half-barrel stratification chamber is extremely easy to throw together and quickly packed up if you need to vacate.
Mud of any type can be used as well as any large stones, metal items, bricks, or anything else that remains in the area.


I've already built standard JTube RMH (YouTube.com  @ResilientVillageUkraine  combustion chamber and Cob bench ( separately, lacking a good building site) out of mainly war debris. Cost well under $100.

These are NOT temporary solutions we need. They're for both civilians (many elderly refusing to leave partially destroyed homes) and soldiers ( many living&working in abandoned homes). We also need a high quality prototype to knock the socks off our  contacts in media, military, government and humanitarian groups so we can really get the word out.

Beyond the prototype, It's dangerous for us to stay long in the areas of greatest need. We must have a quick assembly, easy to use system for the home owners/borrowers. They'll have all sizes of aggregate (a mix of large and small i believe provides best thermal properties).

But there usually won't be the time and manpower for traditional RMH. Later, yes. But I am under tremendous time constraints for the next few weeks to prove RMH is viable option for Ukraine.
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Leslie L Wilson wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Hi
The half-barrel stratification chamber is extremely easy to throw together and quickly packed up if you need to vacate.


Incredibly difficult to lay hands on used barrels. All kinds of Metal Ukrainians fiercely hold on to and recycle.
Can our welder fashion stratification chamber from sheet metal? It looks like flat side goes down, curved part up top, correct?

More questions than answers when I watch And rematch Paul's video. Has there been any tested followup to the Qs posed by the video?

 
thomas rubino
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Yes, you can use sheet metal.
When using barrels, they are split lengthwise and the end caps are cut off except for 2" or so at the arch to retain a half-barrel shape.
When using sheet metal without support, I would hesitate to use it as a bench or a bed.  
It might support the weight, and it might not.
You could weld tabs on the inside and use nuts and bolts to place a "stiffener" across the arch when setting it up, and unbolt one side to lay it flat for transport.
 
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The J tube is the only, easy to build, reliable rocket stove, but you still need to address some facts like the internal riser really needs to be insulated with some form of high temperature insulation.
The whole J tube can be made from fire bricks or even clay bricks, in an ideal world lightweight insulating bricks would be perfect as the stove could just be built and taken apart very easily.
I doubt in anybody outside of the environment can really understand the situation or imagine exactly what is available?
The basic priceable of how a rocket stove works is based on a very high heat situation inside the stove and that needs to be insulated. Perlite, Vermiculite, rock wool or ceramic fibre?
 
Leslie L Wilson
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thomas rubino wrote:Yes, you can use sheet metal.
When using barrels, they are split lengthwise and the end caps are cut off except for 2" or so at the arch to retain a half-barrel shape.
When using sheet metal without support, I would hesitate to use it as a bench or a bed.  
It might support the weight, and it might not.
You could weld tabs on the inside and use nuts and bolts to place a "stiffener" across the arch when setting it up, and unbolt one side to lay it flat for transport.



I think we're talking about different design. The half barrels are not the actual bench. There is a design near the end of Paul's video with the wooden box bench. Instead of  those lightweight ducting tubes ( we don't have those anywhere that I've seen. The main Lowes-like chain managers apparently never saw a crimper before!) the video shows the half barrels INSIDEthe wooden box bench with agregragate nestled all around them. I couldn't tell if smaller rocks are put ob top before the top seating of the bench would be in place. It's one of those Qs without As when I watched the video.
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Fox James wrote:The J tube is the only, easy to build, reliable rocket stove, but you still need to address some facts like the internal riser really needs to be insulated with some form of high temperature insulation.
The whole J tube can be made from fire bricks or even clay bricks, in an ideal world lightweight insulating bricks would be perfect as the stove could just be built and taken apart very easily.
I doubt in anybody outside of the environment can really understand the situation or imagine exactly what is available?
The basic priceable of how a rocket stove works is based on a very high heat situation inside the stove and that needs to be insulated. Perlite, Vermiculite, rock wool or ceramic fibre?



Yes, if you look at the Hostomel home site in the most recent videos you'll see the full firebrick J tube I successfully built totally from the explosion debris of the home. I want to do these mainly but no one hear really believes in the system to allow it to be built in even a shed. You cannot imagine 3 years of frustration to build it when I have no land or home of my own anymore to just build the d"#@ thing.
For now, the portable version that I can build in this Canadian humanitarians workshop will have to serve as the poster child for RMH in Ukraine, so I want to build the most efficient, inexpensive, DIY that looks great and well built.

Believe it or not, I also need to get a Ukrainian engineer to sign off on it sooner rather than later. The opportunity to test builds for soldiers deployed was stopped by their engineer. Even after sharing Portlands code and many specs out of Ernie & Erica's book. Ernest was helping by email in those days. Shared the same repeated problem he had. At least I'm in good company but small consolation when I know how many will be suffering frostbite or worse again this winter.

Sorry. Gotta get to bed. Tomorrow's my first full day back in Kharkiv and my coworker wants to start pricing the material.  Anyone know lumber specs for a basic wooden bench design?
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Fox James wrote:

The basic priceable of how a rocket stove works is based on a very high heat situation inside the stove and that needs to be insulated. Perlite, Vermiculite, rock wool or ceramic fibre?



Rock wool common here. Hardware cloth to encased. Vermiculite available too. Yep. I follow the Wisner standards. Pulled a lot from their video as well as book.
 
thomas rubino
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Yes, Paul's pebble heater has a wooden box that contains the barrel edges.
However, this is a semi-permanent build in his home; here we are discussing a bomb shelter.

Unfortunately,  the Ukrainian people are forced to spend more time in them than they want to.
You can use anything available to hold and seal those long edges. All you need is to keep them in place. Mud, bricks, and rocks come to mind.
Fox brings up a valid point: the risers need (should) to be insulated; it's very accurate, and without it, performance will suffer.
But does this really matter?

I come back to this.
It is for a temporary Bomb Shelter.
The whole idea is to remain as warm as possible with as little wood as possible.
You don't want or need longevity, efficiency, or looks; you just want people to stay alive until they can stop huddling in bomb shelters and return to their homes if they are still standing.

Edit)
I just read your latest post.
I did not understand your needs, especially regarding the need for an engineer to sign off on the project.

 
Fox James
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The wooden box full of stones will not be a very effective method at all, certainly not compared to solid mass but I guess it might work for you as a compromise.
A far more up to date and effective method is a bell or enclosure built around the stove, in theory this might be an option for you.
So a basic description would be replacing the more traditional barrel with a solid mass around the stove.
An even simpler method might be a steel box ( barrel alternative) with stacked bricks around three sides.
Basically a piped mass system ( where a pipe is covered in clay) is well out of date as bell systems have proven to be more effective and easier to operate..
Is there a reason why steel barrels are not readily available?
 
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Hi Leslie,

Maybe this will help? https://roquetinho.eu
It's a detailed industrial design, intended for both DIY and factory production.
 
Leslie L Wilson
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thomas rubino wrote:Yes, Paul's pebble heater has a wooden box that contains the barrel edges.
However, this is a semi-permanent build in his home; here we are discussing a bomb shelter.

Unfortunately,  the Ukrainian people are forced to spend more time in them than they want to.
You can use anything available to hold and seal those long edges. All you need is to keep them in place. Mud, bricks, and rocks come to mind.
Fox brings up a valid point: the risers need (should) to be insulated; it's very accurate, and without it, performance will suffer.
But does this really matter?

I come back to this.
It is for a temporary Bomb Shelter.
The whole idea is to remain as warm as possible with as little wood as possible.
You don't want or need longevity, efficiency, or looks; you just want people to stay alive until they can stop huddling in bomb shelters and return to their homes if they are still standing.

Edit)
I just read your latest post.
I did not understand your needs, especially regarding the need for an engineer to sign off on the project.



No bomb shelters!
Semi permanent to permanent solutions only!
The air raid alerts and even explosions are a daily fact of life. We live lives as normal as possible. Only children are sent to shelters for the most part. They've built truly innovative schools deep in Kharkiv Metro stations. Even so, throughout the country even many parents and families refuse to let the madman in moscow terrorize and disrupt their lives.

High quality permanent heating systems for homes and workshops using as much war debris as possible

Barrels - we will eventually be able to source them eventually. But it is an ongoing struggle.

Engineers & Code - this comes with the cities where I've had to work so far. Even Kharkiv. I'm living near one of several engineering schools in Kharkiv alone. But I just moved out here where I can work on the edges of the most active war zones. Red tape dissolves in frequent explosions.
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Roelof Groenenboom wrote:Hi Leslie,

Maybe this will help? https://roquetinho.eu
It's a detailed industrial design, intended for both DIY and factory production.



Thanks Roelof
I looked briefly at the site. More time later. Anyone familiar with this design?
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Fox James wrote:The wooden box full of stones will not be a very effective method at all, certainly not compared to solid mass but I guess it might work for you as a compromise.
A far more up to date and effective method is a bell or enclosure built around the stove, in theory this might be an option for you.
So a basic description would be replacing the more traditional barrel with a solid mass around the stove.
An even simpler method might be a steel box ( barrel alternative) with stacked bricks around three sides.
Basically a piped mass system ( where a pipe is covered in clay) is well out of date as bell systems have proven to be more effective and easier to operate..



Wow! What happened to the bench slowly radiating heat to the body (especially one with a bad back that lives for work I can do in a reclining postion?)

Pictures! I need pictures!

Ill start sending some myself
shippableCorePortable.jpg
[Thumbnail for shippableCorePortable.jpg]
 
Leslie L Wilson
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:Good heater should be efficient and it's efficient when it has mass to store exhaust heat. Without that it' just a less or more complicated bonfire. There are various methods of efficient combustion - a long fi 300 pipe lined with clay will be an excellent firebox. I would suggest to focus the design on the exhaust energy storage that can be quickly built with what is available. Usually the most ubiquitous material is dirt and some plant fiber.
You could just prefabricate the L-shaped core. It would not be too heavy, so it could be shipped together with a top plate.
Then the client would need to line it (or not - for ultimate simplicity at the price of shorter lifespan) with clay and build a dirt bell around it with top plate on top that would:
-make a ceiling - the most complicated part in any masonry structure
-quickly radiate heat at the beginning of combustion
-could be used for cooking

I can not imagine anything simpler having thermal mass and built with limited material availibility.
If the client has an access to some tank/barrel then it could be also used as a substrate for clay but would require metal cutting.



The "client" is likely to be an 80 year old grandmother who knows how to fireup her ancient masonry heater, but no help in construction of a crazy new-fangled RMH.
We must do the rest of the build ourselves on location in one day if possible.

Spot on with constructing the core in our workshop. Today I'll try to source materials
However,
I need to know several of the best designs currently, then select the one where I can best match the materials.
Please send links pictures materials list for your nominations so we can assess feasibility.
 
Fox James
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If you can buy vermiculite board then most of your problems will be solved.
So much depends on the materials available .  
 
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Leslie please reach out to our friend Bogdan, he has experience building similar stoves in wartime, you can find him on Permies most recently on the thread called
Stove for a bomb shelter

Great man, helping others in Ukraine,  I am not sure about sharing his email but please,please include him in your efforts, at least  as an advisor.  
Let me know again if I can contribute to your noble cause
SLAVA UKRAINE
with respect, rico
 
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Leslie L Wilson wrote:The "client" is likely to be an 80 year old grandmother who knows how to fireup her ancient masonry heater, but no help in construction of a crazy new-fangled RMH.
We must do the rest of the build ourselves on location in one day if possible.



Efficiency of the heater can be expressed by an equation:

Ef (firebox efficiency) * Ea (thermal mass absorption efficiency) * Ee (mass emitting efficiency)

Assuming that you have a perfect firebox with imaginary Ef=1 and Ee is also 1 then all loses are in thermal mass ability to accumulate exhaust heat which is expressed as:
Ea = (Tf - Te) / (Tf - Tr)
Tf = firebox gases temperature
Te = chimney exhaust temperature
Tr = room temperature

When you use values: Tf as 1200 C, Tr as 20 C and Te as 100 c you get 93%, but if you allow gases of, let's say 500 C to escape to the chimney then you get 59% and ultra awesome firebox with the latest refractory will not help. That's why mass is the key.

If the objective is to build a heater in 1 day then I would suggest:
-prefab firebox
-build a bell on site from high clay dirt, straw/hay/even old string, threads (whichever available), stones, rubble (pieces of concrete and bricks)
-top with some plate so people will get instant heat and will be able to cook
 
Rico Loma
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As per usual, Cristobal cuts to the chase.  His equations should start everyone at the right spot, myself included, so the "it depends" caveat becomes laser focused .
Your post will help all of us involved

 
Cristobal Cristo
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While sitting by my exterior cooking stove I was thinking about a way to build a quick bell on site with the available mud.
The easiest shape to build and naturally self supporting would be a truncated cone.
For a firebox being equivalent of fi 125 with the same firebox capacity as BBR fi 125, the ISA would be 3.7 m2 which could be obtained by erecting a truncated cone with Rbase=50 cm and Rtop=20 cm and the height of 162 cm (assuming chimney exit under the cone's base). To make it even faster it would be great to find someone that could mass produce a cardboard template that could be quickly folded into the truncated cone shape, the cutouts would be made for the firebox entry and then cob quickly thrown around and smoothed. It would burn within the bell after the first fire.
It would be topped with a metal plate (ideally round).
 
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John C Daley wrote:In Australia I am held back by lack of concrete information.
I habe been advised by members on this site about what type and size I need to build.
But detailed information about build plans are very hard to find.
I have ascertained from batchheater.eu what dimensions I need but that is all.
I would love detais for a 125mm [ 5 inch] batch rocket  unit.



Have you considered the following resources?
The designs, builds and dimensions are well spelled out. In the case of roquetihno, mass and size scaled down it appears for more temperate climates, build well documented. Not all stoves are rockets, not all heaters have huge mass. In the case of the 'proboards' more math, figures, analysis than most folks will digest.

http://www.roquetinho.eu/en/Welcome.html
https://donkey32.proboards.com/
 
Rico Loma
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Leslie please contact Bogdan, he is quite active on Permies,  he has built many wood burners and is an expert about finding/ welding/ scrounging appropriate materials in Ukraine
I also sent this thread to him, since this thread is not bearing a title for him to pick up your needs.  If I knew how to make your plea for help into a new thread, I would post in every forum, by gosh, this is life or death type of Permaculture
Keep the faith,
Rico
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Two things: 1. Not having adequate floor support for the weight (and not easily having a way to fix that). 2. Really loving the view of a fire in my fireplace and not yet being willing to sacrifice that for the efficiency of a RMH.
 
pollinator
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I want to also be making biochar, and imagine needing slow, steady heat, so TLUD - Top-Lit Up-Draft stoves intrigue me more.
 
William Bronson
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I have built a tlud boiler, from a gas water heater, it is currently decommissioned.while I work on the greenhouse that will be its home.
The downside of a TLUD is the need for a refined fuel, as in the wood needs to be cut into chunks of roughly the same size.
That is a non trivial task.
I think fruit pits and seeds from leguminous trees could be used as a sustainable substitute for hardwood pellets.

Using a retort to make charcoal in a wood stove is pretty straightforward.
I can't remember seeing anyone do the same in a batchbox  rmh, but it seems doable in principle .
I've seen reports that the new fuel will spontaneously ignite  when a RMH is refueled.
At those temperatures, a retort laid in the coals might get to full on pyrolysis  fairly quickly.
The syngas produced  would provide some fraction of the energy that complete combustion would, but you also  get charcoal.
 
Rocket Scientist
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Erika, if you built a batchbox style RMH, you could have a window in the door for fire viewing. Do remember that an RMH, unlike a woodstove, will not be burning all day, but for an hour or two per day in most situations.

If you can get under your house, you can add some block piers in the appropriate location to give extra support. Depending on your climate and how much long-term intense heating you need, you might be able to use a smaller mass that would not severely stress your floor. If it gets warmish in the daytime after cold nights, a mass sufficient to carry overnight and taper off through the day would take care of you.
 
Tommy Bolin
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Erika House wrote:Two things: 1. Not having adequate floor support for the weight (and not easily having a way to fix that). 2. Really loving the view of a fire in my fireplace and not yet being willing to sacrifice that for the efficiency of a RMH.



Everything is a compromise. Espousing a 'permaculture' ethic while demanding the redundant carbon footprint of the immediate delivery/instant gratification of everything Amazon, is a compromise.
I've never owned a home without a fireplace or woodstove. Wet fall/winter heat supplement and a small joy. Even with inserts, my fireplaces were a somewhat indulgent, not too efficient pleasure.  
Our Fisher woodstove is an excellent and life critical heat source/cooktop, but no dancing flames, and I burn a bit of wood. One of the compromises for a quiet, off grid, (more) self-sufficient life.

Live the best you can, leave the scorekeeping to the zealots.

The roquetinho.eu site features a very efficient woodstove, with a lighter mass, and a glass firebox door.
From the proboards site there is a section on the Vortex stove. Efficient, lower mass, potential cooking use, also fitted with glass.
Neither of these are as grassroots, DIY friendly, as the Ianto derived cob stoves, but all do a fine job of clean burning with varying levels of heat extraction and storage, speed and density of heat. They have been refined and tested so that anyone mechanical skill and motivation could build one.
Aesthetics, skill, willingness to work or compromise, access to materials or labor, end use, environment, cost, all have a place in your calculation.
 
master gardener
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Non-permie family veto. Also worry about pipes freezing without a hot-air system.

No wonder I feel so nasty in the house, we’ve had toxic levels of carbon monoxide… sadly no chance of changing this, but I can change some things which is good.
 
pollinator
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My reasons for not going with a RMH are as follows:

1-The last time I looked for home insurance , very few insurers would touch me if I heated with wood. I am talking about a commercial UL rated wood stove. Something I cobbled together with mud, rocks and an old barrel fawgetaboutit.

2-My woodburning furnace (a Sedore 2000)  is in the basement, I could put an RMH there but I dont want to baby sit it. My current heater needs no tending for up to 14 hours.

3-Home resale value.  Very few people are familiar with RMHs built with mud rocks and an old barrel and would see one as a plus. Most would turn around and walk out upon seeing it. Never mind home inspectors! This diminishes the number of potential buyers for my home and therefore selling price.

4- Yes I am convinced that RMHs are more fuel efficient but just by doing land improvements I have an embarrassment of riches when it comes to firewood.  I have a full wood shed, with a full overflow and even a overflow to my overflow! So economizing on wood is a low priority for me at the moment.

I am in the planning phases of an addition to my current home, to make it more senior friendly for future me. It will have a professionally build masonry heater for when I am getting too old to cut so much wood and ground sourced heat pump based radiant floor heating for when carrying in purchased fire wood is too much.  

I might build a greenhouse in the future to start my veggies in the winter. I would put an rmh in there.
 
Brian Cady
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M Ljin wrote:Non-permie family veto. Also worry about pipes freezing without a hot-air system.

No wonder I feel so nasty in the house, we’ve had toxic levels of carbon monoxide… sadly no chance of changing this, but I can change some things which is good.



No chance of changing toxic carbin monoxide levels? Ackk! Can you move/open windows. This sounds bad.
 
M Ljin
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Brian Cady wrote:

M Ljin wrote:Non-permie family veto. Also worry about pipes freezing without a hot-air system.

No wonder I feel so nasty in the house, we’ve had toxic levels of carbon monoxide… sadly no chance of changing this, but I can change some things which is good.



No chance of changing toxic carbin monoxide levels? Ackk! Can you move/open windows. This sounds bad.



Well I mean no chance of changing to rocket mass heater or any sane method of heating! It is under control temporarily.
 
pollinator
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My excuse is like many others.
1. I have a really old house, my floor couldn't support the weight.
It's sagging just with a regular wood burner and wood drying next to it
There is a basement under that part of the house but it has an outside entrance.
If I put it down there; I suppose I could put a door in the floor so I could go down and feed it without having to run outside.

2. It also has limited space.
I suppose I could build an addition which has solid ground underneath it.
 
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I've already answered the question posed in this thread in a post above but wanted to add that in spite of the fact that I'm never going to be building a rocket mass heater, I enjoy reading the different threads about builds.
I don't retain information well so I'm not necessarily learning much but I appreciate the helpfulness of those 'rocket scientists' here and I like watching the problem solving progress.....have been reading since  'Big Al' (I think that was what he called himself? can't remember his user name) caught my attention

 
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