posted 2 years ago
CristobalCristo, yeah, wildlife will probably win unless you have a fence and go after the gophers and voles. And it isn't just deer. Packrats and rabbits are often at fault when everyone is blaming deer.
This is a lot, but it's made a real difference in my drought prone garden.
If you can, an 8 foot chicken wire fence on metal fence posts works, (2 layers of 3 foot wide chicken wire run horizontally,, laced together with galvanized wire) with that brightly colored construction string or the plastic rope that comes off of alfalfa bales (I get these free from a neighbor,) around the top. Turn out the bottom 6 inches of the chicken wire and hold it down to the ground with rocks until grass can grow through it to hold it down. If a rodent is gaining access you'll see a path through the grass. Even dead grass can hold down the chicken wire.
And hugel trenches, buried wood/limbs/branches/sticks and organic matter, can't recommend these enough for holding water in the soil even when it's 100 F outside. Top the trenches with 4"-5" of mowed weeds or wood chips (preferably), keep the sun off the soil, and you'll be amazed at how much it improves growing conditions.
I tried hugel mounds, but the voles and gophers got up into them and made wind tunnels, they dried out terribly, and the winter downpours slid the soil back off, so trenches are very much better.
Mulch, mulch, mulch....it will get better.
Deer can't jump wide, and don't want to get their feet caught on string, so if you can only do a 4 foot high fence (4 foot wide chicken wire run horizontally from post to post,) put a second row of stakes 2 feet away from the chicken wire on the outside, and bright construction string around the top of the outer posts to make a line up at the 4 foot level, a faux fence of sorts, and they won't jump it. It's kind of a lot of posts, but it is cheaper then 8 feet high chicken wire, and while you save for that upper half of chicken wire.
It's exhausting to go to bed at night willing plants to be there in the morning. Been there, done that!
Find the ground water paths on your property by seeing how the trees/native plants grow in a line, even if it's before and after your property. All that melting snow from the Sierras is running off the Sierras and under your property. Satellite maps are good for this. That's where you can tap into your underground water source for your garden trees and plants. Oak trees are a great source of water and planting between two of them, even if theya re 50 feet apart, will guarantee water for your trees and bushes. Drought tolerant natives want to find water down below their roots. They will die if they are watered near their roots, especially in summer when most natives on the west coast are hibernating where there's little rain. Mulch, mulch them thickly, just like in the native places they grow.
Currants are nice native bushes that don't have thorns and provide fruit, and want to tap into that ground water. The elderberry might take a couple years to take off, and will need some extra water the first year. I plant all new perennials by lining the bottom of the planting hole with fat sticks and small 2" branches that are soaked in water, cover that with manure, soak it so the manure water goes down below the hole, then fill back in around the roots with unamended soil. Make those roots go down for nutrients and water.
Ravens eat snails, and little flocks of birds eat bugs, so encourage them in your garden by keeping dogs and cats out of your garden.
Mediterranean climate, hugel trenches, fabulous clay soil high in nutrients, self-watering containers with hugel layers, keyhole composting with low hugel raised beds, thick Back to Eden Wood chips mulch (distinguished from Bark chips), using as many native plants as possible....all drought tolerant.