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This is a badge bit (BB) that is part of the PEP curriculum. Completing this BB is part of getting the wood badge in Gardening.

An average person needs one million calories per year.  So this BB is for proving that you can grow the average person’s annual food needs.  





To put it in perspective, there are 10,000 calories is in:  
         o 35 pounds of potatoes
         o 26 pounds of sweet potatoes
         o 42 pounds of uncooked apples
         o 53 pounds of unsweetened applesauce
         o 10 pounds of prunes
         o 40 quarts of salsa
         o 6 pounds of dried strawberries
         o 55 pounds of onions
         o 50 pounds of winter squash
         o 30 pounds of sunchokes
         o 7 pounds of field corn or rye or most grains
         o 7 pounds of dried black beans
         o 4 pounds of sunflower seeds
         o 3.5 pounds of hazelnuts

To complete this BB, the minimum requirements are:
 - grow, harvest and use 30 or more species (except in cases where species are quite different as in the brassica family) totaling 1,000,000 calories
 - "use" can include drying, canning, root cellaring, freezing, fermenting, eating, selling, giving, etc.
 - perennials, biennials and annuals are fine but foraging is not
 - can not be used for animal feed
 - no inputs from more than 500 feet away (tomato starts from the big box store aren't allowed) except for seeds
 - all systems are polyculture systems
        - all plants' roots must be in contact with at least 3 different species
        - no more than 30% of an area is one type of plant, preferably 10%
 - half the food is grown without irrigation
        - irrigation from a watering can during seed establishment is acceptable
 - plants must include: raspberries, rhubarb, melon, summer squash, 3 sisters, tomatoes, peppers, onions, potatoes, garlic, peas, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, cucumbers, daikon radish, sunchokes, strawberries, rye, stinging nettles, sunflower seeds,  horseradish, sweet clover, comfrey, crocus, daffodils, grape, chives, parsley

To document your completion of the BB, provide proof of the following as pics or video (less than two minutes):
 - each of the 30+ species of food stored or at harvest (whichever is most applicable to prove you did it)
 - a picture of each of your food growing systems used for this BB showing they are polycultures
      - add notes to the pictures to identify the required polyculture plants and systems listed above
 - record the square foot growing area for each of the above polyculture food systems and indicate which ones are growing without irrigation - record total area with irrigation and total area without irrigation  
 - detail the weight of each species and how many calories it represented

Clarifications:
 - Seed potatoes (or tubers or slips) are allowed provided that you show at least five times more final produce than the “seed.”
 - All food needs to be grown in the same calendar year.
COMMENTS:
 
steward
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I'm posting a question here in hopes for clarification before I pursue this one.

My two questions relate to requirements about polyculture and irrigation

- all systems are polyculture systems

My garden is about 60 slightly raised beds, each is 2.5' by 12'.  They used to be 25' long but I subdivided them in half to make them more poly.  I generally plant one annual in each bed but sometimes mix them.  I also encourage plenty of volunteers like flowers, dill, potatoes, garlic and onions.  But most beds are 95% one plant type.

Is this enough of a polyculture for this BB?

 - half the food is grown without irrigation

I generally get enough rain during the growing season.   When we have a few weeks without rain, I do sprinkle the whole garden.  Plus I water some of the seeds when they're getting established (carrots, lettuce, beets, etc).  

So a given plant might get a week of hand watering to get established and 2-3 irrigations during dry spells.  90% of the time it's on its own.

Would this qualify for this requirement?
20210816_120123_resized.jpg
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gardener
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Yes, these are questions I have too. I will be watching for a response as well.

Also, has the following verbiage been recently added?

 - grow: raspberries, rhubarb, melon, summer squash, 3 sisters, tomatoes, peppers, onions, potatoes, garlic, peas, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, cucumbers, daikon radish, sunchokes, strawberries, rye, stinging nettles, sunflower seeds,  horseradish, sweet clover, comfrey, crocus, daffodils, grape, chives, parsley



I don't remember this paragraph being in the requirements the last time I checked. If this is absolutely a requirement, I'm going to have a major roadblock. Rhubarb doesn't grow well here. Nettles also are a struggle in my zone. I am allergic to rye.

 
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Also why crocus and daffodils both are poisonous and daffodils can be deadly, not clever in my opinion to list them in a bb for food as a must grow. This is one BB I have been recording for but the perscriptive list also counts me out as I cannot grow melons or 3 sisters here.
 
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Wow, nice garden! I am jealous that you still have green grass in August. We have had no rain for about 70 days, so everything is brown and dead around here. I am curious if you have made any attempts at quantifying your calorie yield before? By adding 30% to your bed area (2.5*12*60= 1800sq ft) to account for the paths, I come up with about 1/20th of an acre? With the crop mix I am using, I figure I would likely need 5 times more space to get to a million calories, and that would probably assume I irrigated all of it at some point. If anyone does manage to do this one, I will be really curious to see how much space it took.
 
Mike Haasl
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Thanks Carl, it is nice having rain throughout the year.

The total garden area (minus berry bushes) is around 100 x 60.  I did the Straw level (Grow 100,000 calories) bb and got 250k from this garden.  Some of that (apples) was from my little orchard but I missed a lot of calories that just weren't easy to measure (cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, etc).  

I'm guessing I could get over 500k in a summer from just the annual beds.
 
Mike Haasl
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I talked this over with Paul and we clarified the BB post.

My garden isn't polycultural enough for this BB :(

The list of plants is required, some are there just for support reasons, not to eat.

There isn't a minimum calorie requirement for each species (unlike Straw) so even if you struggle to grow some of these, just a small harvest will satisfy the requirements.
 
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no inputs from more than 500 feet away



Does that include manure from a neighbor's goats or does it just mean no plants from further away?
 
Mike Haasl
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I believe "all inputs" would include amendments and mulch.
 
Mike Barkley
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Darn. I was afraid that was the case. Guess it will have to be a million calories via PEM this year. That will save some innocent rhubarbs from a horrible death. Unfortunately, I don't think they have much chance in this climate.
 
Mike Haasl
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Looking forward to PEM
 
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Is there a time limit on this BB, or can it be over multiple seasons/years? The 100,000 calorie BB says it can be over multiple growing seasons, and the 4 million BB says it's over the course of one year. I don't see a specification about this one.
 
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This needs to be in one calendar year.
 
Mike Haasl
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The requirements were adjusted accordingly, plus some other minor housekeeping.
 
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Daron Williams wrote:

To complete this BB, the minimum requirements are:
 - grow, harvest and use 30 or more species  
 - plants must include: raspberries, rhubarb, melon, summer squash, 3 sisters, tomatoes, peppers, onions, potatoes, garlic, peas, broccoli, carrots, lettuce, cucumbers, daikon radish, sunchokes, strawberries, rye, stinging nettles, sunflower seeds,  horseradish, sweet clover, comfrey, crocus, daffodils, grape, chives, parsley

To document your completion of the BB, provide proof of the following as pics or video (less than two minutes):
 - each of the 30+ species of food stored or at harvest (whichever is most applicable to prove you did it)
 - a picture of each of your food growing systems used for this BB showing they are polycultures
Clarifications:
 - Seed potatoes (or tubers or slips) are allowed provided that you show at least five times more final produce than the “seed.”
 - All food needs to be grown in the same calendar year.


??? Questions on required plants??? Sweet clover - this BB is for human food, what harvest for humans are you expecting? I can see this feeding nitrogen to other plants, or feeding livestock but other than a couple leaves/flowers for garnish this is not a food crop.
Crocus - saffron is a spice from a specific variety, I don't know if others are safe to eat and a spice is again garnish not food crop.
Daffodil - these are toxic! I take great pains to make sure I never plant onions or garlic near where I have daffodils to prevent accidents.
 
Nikki Roche
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Aurora House wrote:
??? Questions on required plants??? Sweet clover - this BB is for human food, what harvest for humans are you expecting? I can see this feeding nitrogen to other plants, or feeding livestock but other than a couple leaves/flowers for garnish this is not a food crop.
Crocus - saffron is a spice from a specific variety, I don't know if others are safe to eat and a spice is again garnish not food crop.
Daffodil - these are toxic! I take great pains to make sure I never plant onions or garlic near where I have daffodils to prevent accidents.



Paul has said some species are required for support reasons, not to eat.
 
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Nikki Roche wrote:

Aurora House wrote:
??? Questions on required plants???
Daffodil - these are toxic! I take great pains to make sure I never plant onions or garlic near where I have daffodils to prevent accidents.



Paul has said some species are required for support reasons, not to eat.


Ok support species but garlic and onion are on the list and I don't want garlic and daffodils anywhere near each other because accidents can be very tragic. If I'm making a food forest I don't want to plant known toxic plants that have no edible parts. This should last way beyond me and I don't want future Forest users to poison themselves because they don't know what is and isn't safe.
 
Nikki Roche
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Aurora House wrote:
Ok support species but garlic and onion are on the list and I don't want garlic and daffodils anywhere near each other because accidents can be very tragic. If I'm making a food forest I don't want to plant known toxic plants that have no edible parts. This should last way beyond me and I don't want future Forest users to poison themselves because they don't know what is and isn't safe.



I can only give my interpretation of the requirements and how I plan to follow them. With that said, I want my garden to be edible and not toxic, too. I don't want to worry that my toddler may accidentally mistake daffodil and garlic.

Based on this requirement, I don't plan to grow them close to each other.
- a picture of each of your food growing systems used for this BB showing they are polycultures

As long as the daffodils are grown in a polyculture close to your edible area, I believe it would satisfy the requirements. It says we can have different "systems." Possibly on the edges or a bit outside of your food forest?
 
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Just a quick question. Would plants grown under protection count? I think I could manage three sisters and cucumber and some of the other more heat requiring plants in my polytunnel (high tunnel), my climate is just too cool for many of the required plants to crop or, in some cases, even grow outside. Lack of irrigation would be a new challenge for me!
 
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Nancy Reading wrote:Just a quick question. Would plants grown under protection count? I think I could manage three sisters and cucumber and some of the other more heat requiring plants in my polytunnel (high tunnel), my climate is just too cool for many of the required plants to crop or, in some cases, even grow outside. Lack of irrigation would be a new challenge for me!



That is a good question, I am curious too - seems like that could be viewed as “inputs from outside of 500 feet”, but maybe it’s allowed. I have always been disappointed that, unlike many of the other badges, the gardening ones are extremely prescriptive, with so little room to take into account the local conditions. Since gardening/farming abilities would presumably be important to many of the Otises, it cuts out anyone outside a certain climate range from providing proof those abilities - and also discourages learning to eat a diet that naturally thrives in local conditions. Obviously if it is simply for the challenge, then you can use other requirements or make up your own.  Still, looking forward to seeing peoples amazing gardens, whether or not they include peppers!
 
Mike Haasl
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Sorry Nancy, I didn't notice your question before.  I can't speak for Paul but I suspect a plastic high tunnel or greenhouse wouldn't meet muster.  Maybe a glass system or something temporary for cold nights would.  I view infrastructure as different from "inputs" but maybe that's just my incorrect interpretation.
 
paul wheaton
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Mike asked me to chime in on on nancy's question.

I think a greenhouse is out.  And any plastic is out.  

I think creating microclimates is in.  And something like the season extender (rmh in a hugelkultur) is fine.  Raised beds and tall hugelkultur will help a lot.  

I think that if there is danger of a frost, and people throw a bunch of old sheets onto some frost sensitive stuff for the night, that's fine.

 
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