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Recommendations for a Froe?

 
Steward of piddlers
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Good Afternoon Permies!

I am in need of a froe, but I fret that there does not appear to be many froe vendors. What is worse, is I see a few troubling reviews.

Does anyone have a good froe rec? Got a blacksmith buddy that deals with postage? What'cha thinking?

Help a fella out please
 
pollinator
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I don't have much experience with them, but I saw Lee Valley has one for $60 and it reminded me about something confusing. The first time I saw one was on the Woodwright's Shop, and he had a guest on using a froe. There was a handle, the blade, and a 90 degree twist before it attached to the handle. With this design, after you hit the blade down into the wood, you can simply push down and use the leverage of the handle against the ground. I can't remember ever seeing another froe since then (though I haven't been looking too hard) with the 90 degree twist. Every new one I have seen has the blade straight with the handle pointing away. That means when you hit the froe, in order to lever against it you have to secure the log firmly. Or like I have seen in a few videos, try to wrestle the thing. I get the impression they are basically two different tools for different purposes and the people wrestling logs with a froe might be using the wrong one for the job.

I'd imagine if you are making shakes, shims, or other thin pieces out of wood that is easy to work then it probably isn't an issue. But trying to split off bigger chunks from stronger wood just doesn't seem like it works as easily with the straight design. I'd be interested to hear if anyone has experience with both types. I personally think it would be worth it to refurbish an old one or get a new one made with the 90 degree twist.
 
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different handle positions are dependent on the use.  (each use, used to have a different name for the tool in English, but they are generally all called froes now)

Are you riving a log - making a log into planks?

Or are you more interested in making shingles?

Or something else?  

We got ours from Lee Valley although they are also available at basketry suppliers and farm stores.  Some shops might have to special order them.  A very useful tool.  
 
pollinator
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You can supposedly steer the split if you lever forward or back, plus you can “push” the handle down as you hit the end to keep it going straight down. I don’t know why you would want a 90 degree bender other than to use it sitting down.

You can make one from a leaf spring, choose on old Chevy half ton if you can as you can get an almost perfectly straight section no smithing required, just a bunch of grinding to get an edge and knock the bushing out and replace it with a handle.
 
pollinator
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From wikipedia
A froe (or frow), shake axe or paling knife is a tool for cleaving wood by splitting it along the grain.
It is an L-shaped tool, used by hammering one edge of its blade into the end of a piece of wood in the direction of the grain, then twisting the blade in the wood by rotating the haft (handle).
A froe uses the haft as a lever to multiply the force upon the blade, allowing wood to be torn apart with remarkably little force applied to the haft.
By twisting one way or the other the direction of the split may be guided.[1]
 
R Scott
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I bet the 90 degree handle was for splitting rails. Something long that you can split while it’s on the ground.
 
Timothy Norton
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I was intending to use the froe to make shakes, I have my eye on the Lee Valley froe in fact!

I didn't appreciate that there were different types for different uses. I'm glad I asked first!
 
author & pollinator
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I ordered one of these a few months ago and have used it a lot.  I was skeptical due to bad reviews, but I had a hunch people were using it wrong.  I think they assembled the blade upside down.... probably because that is how it is sown in the add - obviously, the sellers have no idea how to use a froe!  It has worked great for me, and hopefully it will last until I take a few blacksmithing classes and learn to make a solid, old fashioned one.  
https://www.amazon.com/Shingle-Splitting-Blade-Knife-Handle/dp/B07CZ4V1B1/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2NY6VSV7IND7X&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.j1l3aQN46IndMK_CfCmzutJk4vTXS1tUY8cLP84s8SBVr09tBzqJlxZA2sPR1LwHJ52KNUcxJBai3p64kydDLDBlK63omp_BM4H240WojHWFv88T74YHVQdh8Dl7sS3YXDM39l25U8iR_HF6KMS0VWJe57_LSXmh_kc59wTAF6NUrlpMr-WdMYU6DjHkLfe80osO5fvgTM9JycCEW7Mf3yaagk88feUsOLCW4UJdz8Er7PFfRxUyBrrv1CMUlK06_CD3Cle1CFVCNvjyb7DhS1EzBdbtLeTkOWY6mtnI5ak.akoL6W4utriLohUzDxk-k4WrxJkYam4tjMdjoosi2fM&dib_tag=se&keywords=froe&qid=1705516903&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=froe%2Clawngarden%2C153&sr=1-4
 
master gardener
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I bought this one a couple years ago. While I haven't used it enough to have a real opinion (just some proof-of-concept shingles), it feels like good quality.
 
gardener
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Judson Carroll wrote: I think they assembled the blade upside down.... probably because that is how it is sown in the add - obviously, the sellers have no idea how to use a froe!



I just clicked on your link and it was the first thing I spotted - the two photos showing it in use are completely wrong! D'oh!

As for recommendations, for anyone reading in the UK I have one from Bristol Design and it is OK. There is a tendancy to slip from the handle which could be solved by using a wedge - most froes I have used didn't have this issue, however. It comes sharp and the profile works well.

The best froes I have used all seem to be made from spring steel, usually an old 4x4 leaf spring. They seem to grip the handle better and were much heavier than the froe I bought (meaning less whacking with the mallet to split stubborn rounds).
 
master pollinator
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Reintroducing the cleaving brake. Perhaps less wrestling with the log is needed? I suppose the length of logs would be limited... He gets to splitting at 4:15 in the video.

 
Judson Carroll
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Joylynn Hardesty wrote:Reintroducing the cleaving brake. Perhaps less wrestling with the log is needed? I suppose the length of logs would be limited... He gets to splitting at 4:15 in the video.



I LIKE that!  Int he Appalachians, we usually use a tree crotch, improvised.  This looks much more stable and easy to use.
 
gardener
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Great video!
It reminds me of an electrician using the spaces between building steel or the rungs of a ladder to clamp a piece of conduit in place for bending or cutting.

I have  been wondering why one would use froe instead of some version of  a machete, like the japanese nata.
That video is a good illustration of what that 90 degree handle can accomplish.
 
William Bronson
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A follow-up, that assumes machete steel is up for the challenge:

If you drive a machete like you would a  froe you could tighten a pipe wrench over the blade, and use that to exert leverage.

A small diameter log or 2x 4 with a slot in the end could be wrapped in wire to prevent splitting, and serve a similar purpose.
A piece of ridge conduit or black iron pipe could have a slot cut in the end.
A purpose built wrench could have a solid head with slots at various angle.

I have a lot of old hedge shears I find pretty useless.
The steel seems pretty good for this kind of use.
The blades are a little short.


I'm imagining a full tang machete blade , sans scales, jb welded into  a 1/2 or 3/4" drive socket.
Pair  this with a rachet or breaker bar for a diy froe with no welding and extra flexibility.

 
Judson Carroll
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William Bronson wrote: A follow-up, that assumes machete steel is up for the challenge:

If you drive a machete like you would a  froe you could tighten a pipe wrench over the blade, and use that to exert leverage.

A small diameter log or 2x 4 with a slot in the end could be wrapped in wire to prevent splitting, and serve a similar purpose.
A piece of ridge conduit or black iron pipe could have a slot cut in the end.
A purpose built wrench could have a solid head with slots at various angle.

I have a lot of old hedge shears I find pretty useless.
The steel seems pretty good for this kind of use.
The blades are a little short.


I'm imagining a full tang machete blade , sans scales, jb welded into  a 1/2 or 3/4" drive socket.
Pair  this with a rachet or breaker bar for a diy froe with no welding and extra flexibility.



I think that would work if you didn't have to do so much that you needed a dedicated tool.  Also, you would need to reshape the bevel so it is flat on one side.  I did a lot with a machete, but found the blade had too much flex once I was riving boards regularly for carving cooking spoons.  THere was HUGE demand for cherry and birch cooking spoons this Christmas!  
 
John C Daley
pollinator
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THere was HUGE demand for cherry and birch cooking spoons this Christmas!  


What caused the demand, a TV show?
 
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Antique ones here can be found for around $10. I saw a lot at the local auction a couple months ago sell for as low as $3 that had been abused with hammers. I would imagine upstate NY would have just as many or more than here. If you are interested in a froe, you will likely be interested in similar tools eventually, so finding a place at least somewhat local that has old tools at decent prices might help you out in the long run.
 
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