Mike Haasl

According to my memory of the metal roof installation guide for Menards brand metal roofing, you put the screws through both the ridges and the flats depending on where you are on the sheet.  You put it through the ridges everywhere except:
  - The top and bottom of the panel (I believe this is so that the sheet doesn't get squished out wider at the ends and then not stay parallel. It's very easy to overtighten those screws and make the panel wider)
  - The edge that is overlapping the previous panel ( Putting them through the flat here helps hold down the neighboring panel. Going through both ridges is a bit tricky and probably can cause other mischief)

I used the standing seam (hidden fastener) roofing on my last project and loved it so if you have a few extra bucks, definitely go that way.

Hi Stephen, here are some thoughts....

1. Is there a person door very near by?  Opening that to get a human through might be a bit much.
2. A consideration might be to make the leaves different widths.  One narrow one for humans and a wide one for cars.  Open them both for bigger equipment.
3. It's very hard to make a gate that fits tight to the ground (no lintel) that can swing without interfering with the ground (or snow/ice).  Unless it's opening downhill.  Hopefully that's the plan here.
4. A nice feature of the main lab gate is that you can lift or push down on it as needed.  The rebar pivot you show would prevent that.  I'm not sure how the main gate pivot works but putting this gate on a sphere shaped pivot might allow for some up and down movement on the gate as it opens to work around terrain or snow.
5. Make sure you think about how to get thru the gate after a snow storm. Keeping the counterweight above snow may be a terrific idea.
6. Consider a tight junk pole down low for chickens and a loose one up higher so that you can see through the gate a bit. Residents might want to see an approaching vehicle sooner and visitors might like to see in a bit to make sure they're at the right place.
7. It might bump/slide/scrape across the ground easier if the lower cross brace was the bottom most part of the door. If random junkpoles are snagging on rocks, they could break be annoying.
8. A long counterbalance (like on the front gate) might be easier to fine tune than the style shown.  If there's room for it to swing...
9. You may want the counterbalance to be adjustable so if you change things, it can change with them.
10. Be sure to pin the tenons on the cross braces too so that they don't pull out of the vertical logs.
  10a. "Drawbore" clarification:  I believe a draw bore is when the pin holes deliberately don't align and as you pound the pin it, it draws the tenon tighter into the mortise.  Otherwise I think it's just a pinned tenon or something like that.  
11. If you want to bump up your joinery work, I think rectangular tenons in rectangular mortises would be much stronger and keep the door from twisting.  Basically take the top end of your 7" support posts and turn them into 2" by 7" rectangles (8.5" long per your drawing).  Chisel a rectangle in the gate bar for it to slide up into and pin it.  It will require more precision with the chisel work but the door won't twist nearly as much if you get it right.  Same for the horizontals (1.5" by 4.5" tenons however long you think is good)

I just met a guy with a beefy triple axle trailer frame he'd sell me cheap if we can get the tires inflated.  That would probably be better and closer than a farm wagon anyway.

The pontoon boat idea sounds neat.  I couldn't keep it on the water cuz it does freeze solid here in the winter.  The trailers for them seem pretty wimpy so once a home is built on it, I don't know if it could actually be moved?

Found one that goes with a map from above. Here they are together:

Oops, I'm behind on my submissions.  More to come but here's a pile:

Here's what I'm talking about...

I'm wondering if there are any clear and obvious reasons why hay wagons aren't used as the foundation for a tiny home?  I realize they can't be hauled down the highway, but they can be moved around.  With the extra set of wheels, it seems like they could be maneuvered into place better.  The floor height might require a few more stair steps to get into.  I see them ranging from 7' -8' wide x 16' to 22' long with prices for used ones often in the 3 digits.  I have a hunch they have plenty of load capacity.

Hi Phil, thanks for writing!

My official current goal is to replace the glazing.  It's bought and ready to go anytime before it gets cold out.  Along with the glazing, the upper vents need to be worked on so they open farther and lower vents would need to be made.  I have some nice side quests that I could add as well:

One would a system to collect heat from the main greenhouse during the day and store it in the mini-greenhouse to keep the citrus alive.  I have the stuff for it but haven't gotten around to doing it.

Another would be to make an actual door from the seasonal mini greenhouse out into the main greenhouse.

Lastly, the exterior cement board is starting to flake off so I'd like to cover that with something more durable, perhaps like metal roofing

Planting wise, I'd love to see the whole thing be a gorgeous oasis of flowers and food.  Currently it's growing some trees and seedlings in the spring.  I have 4-5 citrus in there that are fruiting, 4 pawpaws that are 3 years old, grapes, figs and peaches.  Haven't gotten fruit off the figs or peaches yet but there are little fruits on the peaches so maybe this year.  I guess an irrigation system could also be a side quest...

I'll PM you about the visit idea, I'm wide open to it.  Thanks!

Since I got my new phone, it's hard to get photos to permies. The two planters are the base for a trellis archway that folks walk through to go down a path.  They are also (I now realize) located at a corner of the building that's the high side of the roof.  So the water would have to move about 10' along the side of the shed before it could water the planters.

Thanks for all your input, it gives me plenty of approaches.  We just have to decide how/if to go about it and how visible of a demonstration we want it to be for garden visitors.  I could run the water through the inside of the shed to more easily get near the planters but it wouldn't make it a "demonstration" for visitors

Yes, I'll send you a PM on the side in case they don't want to be put out in public...