All things machete

I have become convinced at machetes are a useful permaculture tool. Chop and drop, right? Here’s a secret: (whispers) I’ve never wielded one. I have questions!

How does one pick an appropriate machete? I don’t want to end up with a piece of junk that looks impressive but  just knocks stuff down without cutting it. How do I know it’s a good one? How do I pick what size is right for me, or are they just a single size and there’s no decisions to make about that? Are there variations other than size?

What about maintenance? I know knives need to be sharpened (and I know how to do that), but is there other maintenance to consider to keep it functioning well over a long period of time? How often does it need to be sharpened? Are they subject to knicks and/or bends in the blade due to the burlier types of things that are being cut? How is that dealt with?

How does one learn to use it? What are some good beginner tasks to help one get the (forgive me) swing of things? Any videos that you’ve seen that you thought, “Gosh, wish I’d seen this years ago”? Are there secret Jedi master techniques that make the work easier? (I have some damage in my shoulders, so technique over sheer brawn is important for me.)

What other questions should I have asked?

Could I have Googled some of this? Sure. But I ask here because I trust that people have the experience to back up their statements, and I’m pretty positive none of you are AI bots masquerading as actual humans writing things, which is what seems to be driving Teh Google’s results as of late.

I have no idea how others feel on this subject though for dear hubby, one machete is as good as another.

As far as I know he has never had a brand named machete.

Hi Shawn,

I find that machetes are one of those tools that are easy to end up in situations where they will be abused.  For me, the most common abuse is as an axe…followed by a hammer. Of course nail puller enters into there somewhere.  I shell out the bucks and buy something with some weight.   I have never been in a situation where I used one for more than an hour or so…. So being too heavy is not an issue. I favor the Spetsnaz design.  I stay clear of  inexpensive ones with thin blades.

I use a machete regularly, but not every day. I have had several walk away, and as mentioned they also have a tendency to get into trouble with rocks, stumps, abuse like hammers, etc, so I buy cheapies and don't feel bad when they need to be replaced. Luckily for me, cheap machetes are plentiful where I live. A cheapie will sharpen just as sharp as a good one.
If I used it every day to cut sugar cane or something I would buy something nice, all metal, with weight to it. But as it stands right now, I don't have the hand strength and need a lightish one. Obviously it depends on what you're using it to cut-- I'm whacking not-really-woody brush, and light is good enough.
I used to use the machete to cut grass for the rabbits, but ended up trading it for a hand sickle instead, found it was much easier and safer.

Machetes have their place on my homestead.

Stumps shooting out water spouts? Machete

Vines trying to take over apple tree? Machete

Big comfrey? Machete

There are a few different types of machetes out on the market. I  don't have a good brand recommendation but I found that I prefer a thicker blade that bends less. It allows me to chop smaller woody objects with ease.

I do have to touch up sharpening the blade from season to season but nothing crazy. Some odd dings might require a spot treatment but nothing that was out of the ordinary. I do believe there may be a badge bit for sharpening one...

Tramontina makes a good working machete for a pretty good price.  Home Depot and the like carry them.  Depending on size, they are $20-$30.  The carbon steel blade comes with a pretty good edge on it from the store, but definitely work better if you spend ten minutes working on the edge.  You can spend much more, but these machetes work well and are inexpensive enough that you don't have to be too worried if you accidently hit a rock or something.  The wooden handle one is easier on your hand than the plastic one.  I like the 22" one for the extra reach, but the 18" one is probably better for most people, and that one is the one you can get with the wooden handle.  It is the one I would recommend you get, especially since you mentioned shoulder issues.

The "secret" to machete technique is like most chopping tools.  Don't try to power-chop your way through things.  Let the weight of the blade do the work.  Machetes are tip-heavy, so getting decent speed and hitting with the tip make for the best cutting.  If you get a decent swing and get speed at the tip of the blade, the weight of the blade will carry it through.  It's much simpler to do than to explain it, but it will only take you about 5 minutes to get the hang of it.  Just keep in mind, if you are working too hard or your arm is getting tired, you're doing it wrong.  While not entirely effortless, using a machete isn't hard work.  It should be kind of rhythmic, almost relaxing, unless you are chopping really heavy stuff.  It's like most anything, a few minutes doing it are worth more than the time it took you to read this :)  Hope that helps.

John F Dean wrote:
I favor the Spetsnaz design.

That is one wicked-looking blade! Do you find that you use all of the functions that are built in to it, or are there certain edges/functions that you use most often?

Tereza Okava wrote:
If I used it every day to cut sugar cane or something I would buy something nice, all metal, with weight to it. But as it stands right now, I don't have the hand strength and need a lightish one. Obviously it depends on what you're using it to cut-- I'm whacking not-really-woody brush, and light is good enough.
I used to use the machete to cut grass for the rabbits, but ended up trading it for a hand sickle instead, found it was much easier and safer.

As I’m pondering this acquisition, I’m trying to think ahead to what uses I will put it to, which should influence what I get. I think. Or maybe I’m better off just getting something and see what I find is useful? We definitely live in an area with lots of conifers, shrubs, and grasses, and we’re building our house on raw land, so there’s all of that to work at the moment.

Timothy Norton wrote:

Big comfrey? Machete

At our last place, we had some huge comfrey (is there any other kind?) and I ended up just kind of stomping it down. It was the first time that I thought, “Y’know, if I had a machete…”

Timothy Norton wrote:
I do believe there may be a badge bit for sharpening one...

Mwah ha ha ha…yummy yummy badge bits! 😁

okay, i am NOT one to talk, since my idea of a date is to go to walk around the tool part of the big box store with my hunny, and i collect tools the way other women collect shoes or jewelry. BUT.....
I think for me, the best thing is to understand the task and then buy the tool. I'm noticing a lot of the things that other people use machetes for, I use pruning shears or a saw for... I have things like taro root that need to be whacked with a machete, because the stems are too thick to fit inside my pruning shears, for example--  only after cutting them with a kitchen knife for some years did I actually buy the machete.
That said, machetes are fun and cool as heck and you'll probably find a pretty good use for it.

Trace Oswald wrote:Tramontina makes a good working machete for a pretty good price.  Home Depot and the like carry them.  Depending on size, they are $20-$30.  The carbon steel blade comes with a pretty good edge on it from the store, but definitely work better if you spend ten minutes working on the edge.  You can spend much more, but these machetes work well and are inexpensive enough that you don't have to be too worried if you accidently hit a rock or something.  The wooden handle one is easier on your hand than the plastic one.  I like the 22" one for the extra reach, but the 18" one is probably better for most people, and that one is the one you can get with the wooden handle.  It is the one I would recommend you get, especially since you mentioned shoulder issues.

The "secret" to machete technique is like most chopping tools.  Don't try to power-chop your way through things.  Let the weight of the blade do the work.  Machetes are tip-heavy, so getting decent speed and hitting with the tip make for the best cutting.  If you get a decent swing and get speed at the tip of the blade, the weight of the blade will carry it through.  It's much simpler to do than to explain it, but it will only take you about 5 minutes to get the hang of it.  Just keep in mind, if you are working too hard or your arm is getting tired, you're doing it wrong.  While not entirely effortless, using a machete isn't hard work.  It should be kind of rhythmic, almost relaxing, unless you are chopping really heavy stuff.  It's like most anything, a few minutes doing it are worth more than the time it took you to read this :)  Hope that helps.

Super helpful info; thank you, Trace!
You mentioned “if your arm is getting tired, you’re doing it wrong”, which makes sense. I mean, I’m assuming there will (especially initially) some muscle fatigue from repetitive motion, though I’m pretty aware of that potential and tend to break up  heavy work sessions with rest.  Which muscles tend to be the ones that are worked when one is doing it correctly? I would assume that this may change somewhat, based on angles and height and what it is you’re chopping, but I literally have no experience to draw on here. Trying to think ahead to forming reasonably decent technique so I don’t end up damaging myself (especially my shoulder)  in the process.

Shawn Foster wrote:
Super helpful info; thank you, Trace!
You mentioned “if your arm is getting tired, you’re doing it wrong”, which makes sense. I mean, I’m assuming there will (especially initially) some muscle fatigue from repetitive motion, though I’m pretty aware of that potential and tend to break up  heavy work sessions with rest.  Which muscles tend to be the ones that are worked when one is doing it correctly? I would assume that this may change somewhat, based on angles and height and what it is you’re chopping, but I literally have no experience to draw on here. Trying to think ahead to forming reasonably decent technique so I don’t end up damaging myself (especially my shoulder)  in the process.

I think you'll find that no muscles really end up getting worked much.  Your forearm muscles will get some work, especially if you haven't done a lot of manual labor, but if you just do as you mentioned and take short breaks to do something else if your hand gets tired, I don't think you will have issues.  This is a very individual thing obviously.  The biggest issue for most people I think is that it can be kind of hard on the skin on your hand.  The wooden handle is much better than the plastic one with regards to that.  If you hold the machete in a somewhat relaxed grip (as you should), rather than a death grip , the handle moves around somewhat in your hand and can rub the skin.  Your hand will adapt pretty quickly if you use a machete somewhat regularly and not for a couple hours straight the first time.  You can wear gloves if it bothers your hand, but if you do, I would use very thin leather gloves.  Goatskin gloves work good.  If you use thicker gloves, you have to hang on tighter, so your hand may get a little more fatigued.  I personally don't wear gloves unless I really have to and I recommend going without and using common sense to know when your hand has had enough for the day.  I also find it easy enough to use my off-hand with a machete, and I'm by no means ambidextrous or even very coordinated.  I don't think machete work will bother your shoulder much, but that is purely a guess considering I have no idea the extent of the issue you have.  If you are trying to cut something really heavy, maybe the shock to your shoulder when you hit the items being cut would bother it?  I use the machete mostly for briars, thistles (which get enormous on my land), small saplings, things like that.  As long as you keep the blade sharp, those things cut quite easily.  

Hi Shawn,

Mine is similar to this.  Besides cutting, I used as a hammer, nail puller, shovel, etc.  I got mine just after the fall of the Soviet Union … it was pretty inexpensive.   I notice the price is considerably higher. It appears they have been “discovered” .   That said,   I would probably lay down the $$ for one.

Someone recommended tramontina machetes here at Permies a long time ago. I bought the 22" one and use it all the time for whacking blackberries. The survey crews at my job also use them. I bought mine from Machete Specialists. But our own Benjamin Bouchard sells upgraded ones at Baronyx Knife Company

Shawn,

I am going to start with your maintenance question. Generally, you will sharpen it with a mill file. If you do this at your base, a cheap vice  and a pair of cut proof gloves will help prevent a very common injury as you slide your hand holding the file down the length of the blade.  If you do this "in the field" the cut proof gloves should be mandatory. Harbor freight  sells a very cheap table mounted belt sander that you see  being used on a lot of youtube videos to sharped machetes. However, remember that a machete is made from stamped, not forged, blades. They are thin by design and the edge is easy to overheat with any machine sharpener, which will ruin the machete.  File and gloves is your go to. After sharpening, oil the blade. I have used machetes for many years, many purposes, many environments. Food grade olive oil works just fine on a machete blade, no need to use some synthetic.

Next, in my opinion, the most important part of the machete is the sheath. One without a good canvas, leather, or polypro sheath is pretty much useless and certainly  dangerous. Cheap leather sheathes rip at the belt loop attachment. Plastic is ok, but canvas is easy to modify. You want to modify it, slightly. You want a pocket on it for a file or a multitool with a file. You can do this with two pieces of thick nylon webbing, hot glue gunned to the sheath.

Let's next  talk handle. The very end of the handle. You want a lanyard hole. You want a lanyard, and you want to use it. It is not traditional, but it will keep that sharp piece of thin steel from flying out of your sweaty grasp. A brightly colored lanyard cord will help you find the machete when you lean it against a tree or something like that. Paracord won't chafe your wrist and is easily replaceable. Handle material is a matter of personal preference. I have used wood, plastic, horn, rawhide, and thickly wrapped duct tape. Duct tape was not good.

Optimal blade design and length is going to depend on your usage, which depends on the vegetation.

Keep all parts of your body out of the complete path of the swing, follow through,  and possible rebound of the blade. Never "stab" with a machete, the lack of a  guard will end up with your hand sliding down the blade. If you need to dig with it, chop the blade into the ground  and scrape the earth aside.

https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-97ST18S-Machete-Sheath/dp/B019RSYTAC?ref_=ast_sto_dp&psc=1

Jeff
 

I have a heavy machete and a light machete, both have thier uses but I usually prefer the lighter one as it's less fatiguing. The thinner blade is easier to swing fast and has some flex to it which feels like it helps somehow in neglected garden beds (mainly tall chicory and wild lettuce). The thick heavy one does better on light woody stuff back on the trails like young honeysuckle.

The last several years I've battled some tendonitus in both elbows so I have a whole arsenal of hand chopping, whacking, and cutting tools to diversify efforts when the pain of a singular repetitive motion starts tinging. Hedge shears and loppers are good to mix in and slowthings down to keep from over-doing it with a machete!

I use a Fiskars brush tool, that appears to be a copy of WW11 pilots survival tool. They make a 13 and an 18 inch tool. the bill hook part is very handy yet I still have a section of machete action. I purchased mine from Home Depot but amazon has them this happens to be the 13inch model.

I got my machete in 1979 at the local military surplus shop. It was made by Herramientas Collins, which for at least 100 years was the go-to across Latin America. I only recently learned about Collins and how big a deal these machetes were, and apparently the Guatemalan factory closed down that same year.



It's basic, stout, and has been used and abused for nearly half a century (kind of like its owner). I've always happy with the ease of grinding out nicks and restoring the edge...it's superb tool steel. The cheap plastic handle cracked ages ago, so I carved a new one from mesquite. The canvas scabbard succumbed to dry rot and has been replaced by some upcycled blue jeans.

From an article about the Collins Axe Company:

In 1859, Scientific American reported that the Collins Company employed 350 people and produced 2000 tools daily – not monthly or yearly, but daily. By then, Collins had expanded and was also producing “adzes, picks, sledge-hammers, hoes, cane-knives, Spanish-machetes, and a whole host of other tools passing through the different processes from the rough-bars of iron and steel, until they were polished like glass, finished and packed ready for transporting to the sales office in New York” – so wrote Scientific American.

Collins tools – specifically, machetes – became highly-regarded and well-known throughout Central and South America. The Uruguayan writer Horacio Quiroga praised Collins machetes in his short stories. The author spent many years in the jungles of the Misiones region in modern-day Argentina. Not bad for a company from small-town Connecticut.

Even nowadays Sam Collins Day is a yearly celebration held in Canton, Connecticut, and the area where the factory and worker housing were located is known as Collinsville.
Unfortunately, the company suffered double-whammy blows in the 1950’s and 60’s. A severe flood in 1955 damaged part of the factory and the rail lines leading to it. The more serious problem was increased competition from mass-manufacturers of tools and the rise of the chainsaw that replaced axes in forestry and among builders. In 1966, after 140 years of operation, Collins Company closed its doors. Its South American operation was sold to Stanley Tool, and the domestic US operation, including the Collins name, was bought by Mann Edge Tool Co. of Lewiston, Pennsylvania. Finally, in 2004, Truper Herramientas bought the Collins brand and shifted manufacturing to Mexico. That’s the long and short of Collins axe history.  

And from a story about Don Eduardo Fernandez, who worked at the Stanley factory in Amatitlan (translated):

Don Eduardo, how did you start your work life?

I started working with Stanley tools from 1969 to 2010. It was 41 years of work.

I was 23 years old, I hadn't graduated. I worked and studied while I was with Stanley; They valued that very much. I started with the company Herriamentas Collins, a factory owned by Stanley, in Amatitlán, where the famous Collins machetes were made.

It was the only machete factory. They closed in 1979 due to union problems, so I went straight to working with Stanley. It was the terrible time of armed conflict. Initially, I stayed as a sales manager at Stanley; In 1982, I was appointed general manager.

Insane !!    I just realized the asking price for a Spetsnaz was well over $1000.00 on eBay.  Let me back up on my earlier comment.  I would never pay that kind of $$.   Now I am afraid to use mine. There is no way I paid over $100.00 for the one I have … now I have to remember where I put.   And when I find it, I have to see if it will fit in my safety deposit box at the bank!

In case this wasn't linked earlier, there's a good machete discussion in the Permies "archives":

https://permies.com/t/14896/Machete-recommendations

If I remember correctly, my Collins cost me $25 when I bought it. Maybe $30. I know it wasn't a huge outlay at the time (even given my meager teenage finances). Miller's Surplus in Tucson was the real deal.

I went with a Gerber machete because it advertised being strong enough to split wood. The blade is pretty thick. I'm fond of it. It was about $40.

I’ve found straight blades like the machete not to be very useful on my property.
Sickles, scythes, and other curved blades are far more useful because they grab what one is cutting so well, in addition to the cut. The precision is really fantastic too. The curved bladed tools are also lighter and handier, in my experience. I love my curved bladed tools and buy good quality ones.

When we need to cut larger stuff like tall pasture, blackberry canes or bamboo, we use scythes. Medium stuff, sickles. Small stuff, simple nippers. Big tree branches, a curved handsaw, or even a chainsaw if giant.

Here is my  two sense, been swinging a machete almost every day for over twenty years here in Costa Rica. I have a full quiver .like a bag of golf clubs. Short heavy thick ones to long sword like blades. The key is learning to sharpen them so they cut through things like a hot butter knife. Used to swing a 28oz framing hammer all day so using a machete came second nature to me. I use corneta brand from El Salvador, the steel has a nice ring to it .only advise, be mindful where your blade is at all times,and of where your follow through goes. It’s easy to get seriously injured if you don’t. Cut through wood at 45 deg angle to grain, not perpendicular to it. Pick the right tool for the job, takes time to figure out what is your favorites for the tasks at hand. Cut the end of my thumb off, didn’t hurt as bad as getting splattered with framing hammer. Daily scrubbing with aloe Vera and it grew back. Have fun, be safe!

I have several.  Different styles and quality.  None are very expensive though I've learned to stay away from the "$5" variety (not sure if they are still that cheap.. I haven't purchased in years).   I have a Cold Steel Kukri that is decent.  Several no known brands of varying sizes and styles.  But my favorites are my  Tramontina.    Made in Brasil,  generally very low in price compared to most but a very good quality steel for a machete.  They hold an edge well as well as hold up to abuse.  I bought my first one in a hardware shop in Puerto Rico priced at $11 in 2018.   I've never found one quite that cheap since but I believe they are normally priced under $30.  I live in southern Mississippi where heavy weeds and underbrush grow faster than superman can fly so I use my machetes often.    Honestly I believe the key to choosing the right machete size/style is to choose one that feels right in your hand.. not too heavy, nor light, but when you pick it up, it begs you to swing it and chop something.   The really long ones will rarely get used and the really short ones are only good for soft plants or you will wear your arm out while chopping more than necessary.    Maybe a blade approximately the length of your forearm?  That just a guess as my most used are that size for me.

I just bought one this year for chopping down stands of thistle (which has poison ivy at its feet and I was trying to avoid hands on encounters with it quite so often) and chopping compost.   After looking at options and narrowing it down I ended up with a Bare Bones Japanese NATA tool... because it is so lovely.

Wow, Chris. It's almost too pretty to use for sh** work. It looks like a hollow grind -- very unusual for a machete. What is the steel?

Brent Bourdeau wrote:only advise, be mindful where your blade is at all times,and of where your follow through goes. It’s easy to get seriously injured if you don’t. !

Bravo -- this is excellent advice, and it mirrors my experience. My blade (Ontario 1949 pattern) has tasted its owner.

Machetes are incredibly versatile but incredibly dangerous if you are slightly inattentive for a microsecond, tired, or distracted. And let's be honest, that's each of us one time or another. Many survival kits do not include a machete but a long handled hatchet instead -- they are less likely to cause injury during times of fatigue and stress.

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Wow, Chris. It's almost too pretty to use for sh** work. It looks like a hollow grind -- very unusual for a machete. What is the steel?

Douglas, from their write-up:
Stainless-Steel Japanese Knife: Forged with a resilient stainless-steel core, this outdoor knife is expertly balanced for outdoor versatility and can even be used as a champagne saber. With its slender and lightweight design, this machete provides easy maneuverability and reduces fatigue, making it a great machete for cutting trees.  Features a 12-inch single-edged blade that is ideal for clearing underbrush, debarking logs, and as a firewood splitter.

After you choose your machete. No matter what size or design. Put a lanyard on the handle. A loop of 550 cord to keep it from slipping out of your hand. You don't want to lose control of it when tired or sweaty. It will likely be your foot or lower leg that will catch it. Always be safe.

Great responses here.  I also strongly agree with Fred Hans's suggestion on a lanyard.  Gloves will also be a trial and error exercise but should be considered especially for wet conditions.  The lanyard should also be sized to go comfortably over your gloves.

I spent a couple years with an Ontario Knife Company (OKC) army surplus machete that looks exactly like the Collins model Phil Stevens showed us- except it has a black finish and durable plastic handle.  After heavy use the rivets in the handle needed to be reset and I did a little grinding to allow it to fit my hand a bit better as I used it over the span of the first few months.

After losing my day job I took some time off to help out at a few R/C model airfields doing drainage and field work.  With a machete and bow saw I cleared saplings that had grown up in the overfly areas of the model aircraft runways.  Some of these were over 5 years old {the saw was great for those) but the machete made quick work of the younger trees-- especially in the wetter seasons when they were heavier, softer and more easily cut.

One thing that wasn't discussed here much is the angle of your swing.  As Brent Bourdeau mentioned, your blade path must be your prime concern so your follow through will NOT hit your shins or anything else you care about AND the angle you strike each plant will make all the difference in whether you cut it through with one swing or merely wound the plant and need a second strike.  Brent Bourdeau mentioned a 45 degree angle, and I think this is a good rule of thumb, but I found I needed to adjust my angle swing (to each plant) depending on its angle of growth and the hardiness of the bark.  You want your blade to pierce any bark and continue through and most importantly use the strength of the limb against itself-- so as you pierce the skin of the plant-- it does not move sideways at all-- the blade cuts efficiently all the way through and you can plan your next strike with a return stroke on a different limb-- maybe stepping forward again supremely mindful of where your legs are during this.  With practice I got to the point I could look at any sapling limb and know the right angle to quickly sever it.  Keep in mind much depends on the sharpness of your blade and the woodiness of the plant.

I am 6' 1" and have arms  that span a little more than that distance, so I can get a pretty good snap in my follow through.  I could use the machete to dispatch ash, sumac and maple saplings up to 1.5" thick but that took a lot of speed and I found my elbow would sometimes ache if I tried to get too much speed and I eventually developed some elbow joint issues I attribute to over use of my machete, along with digging a few thousand feet of french drains by hand with just a garden spade and coal shovel.  I remember using the machete was actually fun as I could cover a lot of ground on foot with just two lightweight sharp tools, but as I get older I found power tools more attractive for my aging joints.

I take two machetes for clearing brush. My go-to cutter I found in a junk box for $5. Handmade in S. America somewhere, probably cut out of an old saw blade. It's not pretty, but it's light, comfortable, hair shaving sharp and sails through anything up to 1". Second favorite is a heavier Tramontina Bolo machete, that one will go through 3" saplings in two cuts.
What I look for: a thicker 18" blade, carbon  steel, no sharpened tip, wood handle, forward balance, canvas sheath. Never used a lanyard myself, but it comes in handy. OK, the edge doesn't "need" to be knife sharp, but it should at least be clean with no rolls or burrs. This is from many years of professional sharpening, martial arts and land clearing.
Machetes can be very tiring if they're used as chopping tools instead of cutting tools. With a good edge, proper angle and follow through (not stopping the blade at the cut, but cutting through) and powering the cut from the shoulder (if possible), it shouldn't take much effort. Keep your non-working side back and out of the way of the cut, know where your other hand is at all times! An easy way to practice blade alignment is to make cuts in the air and listen for a "whistling" sound. That means the blade is cutting the air cleanly; as opposed to a "whoosh", which is air slapping off the flat of the blade.
"Cringe" whenever I see files being used for regular blade maintenance.... I hone my edges like a knife blade and use medium/fine ceramic stones for touchup work. (Excessively OCD by most people's standards, admitted.)

Douglas Alpenstock wrote:

Brent Bourdeau wrote:only advise, be mindful where your blade is at all times,and of where your follow through goes. It’s easy to get seriously injured if you don’t. !

Bravo -- this is excellent advice, and it mirrors my experience. My blade (Ontario 1949 pattern) has tasted its owner.

Machetes are incredibly versatile but incredibly dangerous if you are slightly inattentive for a microsecond, tired, or distracted. And let's be honest, that's each of us one time or another. Many survival kits do not include a machete but a long handled hatchet instead -- they are less likely to cause injury during times of fatigue and stress.

Me while using machete: "watch your foot,  watch your foot,  watch your foot"

Jeff Lindsey, good advice! . A brightly colored lanyard cord will help you find the machete when you lean it against a tree or something like that. Paracord won't chafe your wrist and is easily replaceable. Handle material is a matter of personal preference. I have used wood, plastic, horn, rawhide, and thickly wrapped duct tape. Duct tape was not good.

I recommend My Parang in Chicago: Malaysian parangs and goloks, small enough to use and not get machete elbow, QUALITY STEEL, beautiful forgings. The Collins machete I got in Costa Rica was hard to sharpen and hard to use for long. the plastic handle got slippery with sweat and treacherous. I developed machete elbow in short order. Those fancy "sword and sorcery" survival choppers are for Halloween only. If you can't cut a 1.5- 2 in. green plum or apple branch in one stroke, something's wrong.

I have never used a machete but I have used a bilhook. This one from Lee Valley.  Similar but it has a 'nose' that will hit the a rock before the blade does and thereby keeps it sharp longer.

I bought one a couple years ago, so don't have nearly as much experience as many here are.  My intention was for cutting overgrown weeds (such as red root pigweed and thistle) by hand rather than getting out the tractor.  The stems had gotten big enough that my scythe wasn't happy working on them (I didn't know as well then how to use it but I also wanted to cut higher above the ground).  There was a cover crop mix that had been overgrown so I wanted to be able to go in and selectively cut.  I don't recall how a machete occurred to me.

I ultimately went with what was available.  I got this 18" SOG from Cabela's Canada.  It was locally available and relatively inexpensive.

I didn't want to spend too much money before I knew what I wanted and how well it would work for me...if it wasn't the right tool for the job, I wasn't out a lot of financial capital.  If it worked out OK, I would use it and strive to learn what I liked about it and didn't like looking forward to a possible collection or replacement in the future.

I found it worked quite well for what I wanted it to do.  I haven't used it much (if at all) on woody material - when I'm doing stuff like that, I usually have a pair of secateurs and loppers at hand.

I have some pigmentosis on my hands so I tend to wear a decent, thin pair of gloves to keep my hands out of the sun.

Good luck on your search and a decision.

Homestead in Bolivia here. Machetes? I currently have 5 I think. 2 sugar cane broad blades (my favorite) 2 normal ones , long narrow blade and one heavier Czechoslovakian orphan I came across here. Sugar cane is my go-to. For lighter work the narrow blade and for heavier duty stuff such as clearing out acacia caverns I often reach for the Czech. Sharpening with stone or angle grinder and flapper disk.most are Tramontinas and cost me around 5 to 10 USD,, depending on the exchange rate. So yeah, machetes definitely a thing here. Sometimes even for dispatching chickens or as a fire tool.

I like how the sugar cane machetes are also available with an extended two-hand handle. That is brilliant -- MUCH safer, and reduces fatigue and strain because you can "mix it up" as you work.