Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Anne Miller wrote:I feel that using hugelkulture is only a tool.
It is a small part of the whole scheme of things.
I believe that if a person will work on building their soil health then hugelkulture is a great tool.
I would suggest if you want to build soil look into planting Comfrey and other Dynamic Accumulators:
https://permies.com/t/138059/research-Dynamic-Accumulators-incl-Mother
This is also a thread that you or others might find interesting:
https://permies.com/t/175528/Long-game-clay-soil-fixing
I would suggest reading Dr. Bryant Redhawk's Soil Series for help with building your soil:
https://permies.com/wiki/redhawk-soil
Starting with this one:
https://permies.com/t/123928/Growing-Plants-builds-soil-health
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Argue for your limitations and they are yours forever.
“We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses.” — Abraham Lincoln
"I don't consider myself a pessimist. I think of a pessimist as someone who is waiting for it to rain. And I feel soaked to the skin." -L. Cohen
Jan White wrote:I think a huge problem is that most people use too much wood and not enough soil. I did that with my first ones and ended up with some of the same things you have - huge voids, lots of rodents. They also don't hold water well. Actually, they're very dry. . Whenever i plant into those hugels, I bring a bucket of soil and dig a much bigger hole than I need to plant the thing I'm planting. I push as much soil as I can into the voids I find and top up from the bucket. Sometimes I fill up the bucket a couple times and haul even more soil over to the hugel. Since I started doing this a couple years ago, the beds have really improved.
The hugels I made after were done slowly. Partially because I build them by hand, but I also wanted to be more careful to have soil surrounding every log. So every layer, I put wood down with spaces in between, then fill up the spaces with soil, kitchen scraps, leaves, etc. But mostly soil. Then I get a good layer over top of the wood as well. Once there's 10-20cm of soil on top, I put another layer of wood down, with space in between each piece again. These hugels are great from the beginning and get better and better. I have fewer rodents and they hold water really well.
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Mike Barkley wrote:Perhaps at the end of the growing season you could use a sledge hammer or a vehicle to compact the hugel. Maybe add some soil on top after all the cavities are collapsed.
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Jen Fulkerson wrote:I totally feel your pain. Instead of slugs it was my chickens. They removed the soil down to the wood layer so many times. I feel as if I have rebuilt that hugel a dozen times. I rebuilt mine this spring and have veggies growing on it. I'm not one to sing it's praise. Maybe because I have to keep rebuilding it, maybe because we get so little rain, what ever the reason my hugel is just another garden bed for me. I have to water it just as often as all my other gardens, and being short, makes maintaining it a challenge. It's my least favorite garden bed to be honest. I much prefer the raised bed hugel beet. They are super productive, and easy to maintain. It's easier to water as well.
If want to keep your hugel, could you get ducks? They will take care of your slug problem. Chickens would also, but they love to kick the soil layer off too unfortunately.
If you don't want the hugel, give yourself permission to change it. There's no one answer for everyone. If it's making you miserable, try something else. There's lots of gardening styles, figuring out what one works for you is part of the adventure.
Good luck to you. Let us know what you decide to do.
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
“We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses.” — Abraham Lincoln
Jeff Peter wrote:Hey Brody,
I feel your pain. I think your hugel bed can become productive given time. I missed how big it is, but this is what I would do ~
Poke holes down into it. A railroad pinch bar, six feet of heavy iron would be ideal, or a long crowbar, or piece of rebar... just make a bunch of holes. Then pile on a foot or two of soil, even if you have to buy it.
Then soak the heck out of it with the goal being to get a bunch of that soil down into those holes you’ve made so that it seeps in and fills all those air pockets and rodent hidey holes. If you can source it, good living soil rather than the plain old dirt that comes in bags will ignite the decomposition of all that wood down there. A deep flooding should also help drive out the rodents.
Top off with finished compost and plant in that.
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
🌿🌱🌰 🍑🌳"Nature is the art of God" ~~~ Dante Aligheri 🪴🍎🍋
“We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses.” — Abraham Lincoln
🌿🌱🌰 🍑🌳"Nature is the art of God" ~~~ Dante Aligheri 🪴🍎🍋
“We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses.” — Abraham Lincoln
🌿🌱🌰 🍑🌳"Nature is the art of God" ~~~ Dante Aligheri 🪴🍎🍋
Small-holding, coppice and grassland management on a 16-acre site.
Jennifer Panicacci wrote:Hi Jen:
Yes, I'm wanting to do hugel in my 16" deep raised cedar beds.
Thanks for the tips, I can't wait to get started on it and actually
get the thing layered in and done!
I plan for the layers to go in something like this:
1. big chunks of wood/logs
2. chicken manure compacted down with wood chips to
fill in as many cracks as possible and add nitrogen
3. 3" wood chips layer
4. hopefully 2" layer of leaves
5. compost
6. soil and amendments
7. plant in
8. straw mulch on top
Thanks for the good wishes!
Jen P
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Brody said, "I would use wood chips, bark chips, branches, twigs and sticks before I used seasoned firewood for a hugel. Or even just piles of leaves, grass, manure and unfinished compost
John said, "They offer this free. However they have an option to pay (between $20-80 per load).
All else being equal (mileage/travel time, etc), the person offering to pay will probably get served before the 'freebies'.
Invasive plants are Earth's way of insisting we notice her medicines. Stephen Herrod Buhner
Everyone learns what works by learning what doesn't work. Stephen Herrod Buhner
🌿🌱🌰 🍑🌳"Nature is the art of God" ~~~ Dante Aligheri 🪴🍎🍋
Jennifer Panicacci wrote:Great, thank you Anne and Brody.
OK, I will eliminate firewood from my layers.
One last thing: is it okay to use dyed mulch in one of these beds?
It seems it would be toxic and decompose much slower.
Thanks again,
Jen P
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Jen Fulkerson wrote:Maybe because I have to keep rebuilding it, maybe because we get so little rain, what ever the reason my hugel is just another garden bed for me. I have to water it just as often as all my other gardens, and being short, makes maintaining it a challenge. It's my least favorite garden bed to be honest. I much prefer the raised bed hugel beet. They are super productive, and easy to maintain. It's easier to water as well.
Works at a residential alternative high school in the Himalayas SECMOL.org . "Back home" is Cape Cod, E Coast USA.
“We can complain because rose bushes have thorns, or rejoice because thorn bushes have roses.” — Abraham Lincoln
Many things last lifetimes or eons, but the only thing that's permanent is the ever-changing flow itself
John Hutter wrote:Hugelculture warnings;
1.) If you are in a forested, non-urban environment, hugelculture is going to make habitat that will initially be filled with mice, voles, rodents etc, and slugs, pillbugs, creepy crawlies etc. They will be populated with these things regardless of how completely you bury the wood with plenty of dirt/soil. "Too much wood, to little dirt" will exacerbate this issue to the point that the hugelculture looks more dead than the marginal dirt you were trying to upgrade once the hot season arrives, AND the pests will be streaming out of it. If you are trying to bury wood with clay that is in clods larger than 1/4" minus, the dry voids and wind tunnels are inevitable (if it isn't a sunken bed) and they will require tamping (or a decade+) to do away with.
Even though hugelculture can create a pest problem that ruins a nearby traditional garden area, it's okay. Remember it's all part of the ecological kersplosion master plan that creates fertility rather than consumes it. But it might take 5 years for the leopard slugs or whichever predator you need to show up : ( If it's fresh-cut 6"+ logs, it's probably going to be a few years before the wood is little more than dead space to the plants above.
2.) you will likely have a much more productive hugelsperience if the plan is to put it in, come back in 5 years, tamp it down, and then see what you can cultivate.
3.) putting pricey delicious perennials in a new hugelculture commonly makes for rodent food and little else. The experience will likely be less of a bummer if you plant perennials adjacent to the hugelculture, in well-tamped, well-fertilized and well-irrigated holes. Drip irrigation + tilled area (hugelculture etc) = root buffet/vole void
But if you'll be around for 5 years and your starvation isn't dependent on that patch of ground's productivity in the meantime, it's totally worth it : )
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
Many things last lifetimes or eons, but the only thing that's permanent is the ever-changing flow itself
John Hutter wrote:you will likely have a much more productive hugelsperience if ...
Jeff Peter wrote:Hey Brody,
I feel your pain. I think your hugel bed can become productive given time. I missed how big it is, but this is what I would do ~
Poke holes down into it. A railroad pinch bar, six feet of heavy iron would be ideal, or a long crowbar, or piece of rebar... just make a bunch of holes. Then pile on a foot or two of soil, even if you have to buy it.
Then soak the heck out of it with the goal being to get a bunch of that soil down into those holes you’ve made so that it seeps in and fills all those air pockets and rodent hidey holes. If you can source it, good living soil rather than the plain old dirt that comes in bags will ignite the decomposition of all that wood down there. A deep flooding should also help drive out the rodents.
Top off with finished compost and plant in that.
Best serotonin-booster ever: garden time.
Jeffrey Loucks wrote:Hugels are usually not talked about unless I am in a discussion about how many woodchucks I have caught so far in any given year. I have decided that, in my area (SW lower Michigan), hugels make amazing woodchuck apartment houses. So far this year I have caught 14 in my large one. If I even build one again I will line it with small holed fencing to keep them out.
My point is that even our failures are successes if we set down and think about how they can be of use. It was one of the first lessons I learned in permaculture. I firmly believe it. There are no problems. Just solutions waiting to be discovered. Those solutions make our life not only better but they make it more enjoyable.
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
This is all just my opinion based on a flawed memory
Ben Zumeta wrote:I agree that hugels are appropriate in some contexts and not others. I think NW California may be where they are most suitable, as nature has demonstrated with nurselogs they emulate. I have found they aid drainage as much as helping reduce watering, and help create more soil above water table for roots in our wet season.
While I have heard of people having surprising success with redwood in hugels, I avoid using it in soil for similar reasons I’d avoid our local, heavily tannic and rot resistant cedars. Other conifers have worked well for me though.
However, apparently many taxonomic conglomerations of North American tree genera, like “cedar”, “fir”, or “hemlock”, were made as the best guess approximation to what they were familiar with by European botanist-explorers. Genetics have shown that as hit and miss, with many “cedars” being only very distantly related. So maybe the local cedars to Texas are less tannic, but if I were looking for a sure thing I’d research that first. Best of luck!
Maybe Life is always like being on a trapeze or a tightrope at the circus...
What we think, we become. - Buddha / tiny ad
montana community seeking 20 people who are gardeners or want to be gardeners
https://permies.com/t/359868/montana-community-seeking-people-gardeners
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