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r ranson wrote:Turning off the taps?
Apparently outside taps freeze and explode or something bad. They have an extra on/off thing inside the wall (uninsulated wall, I might add).
Since we need the water for the animals we like to keep the taps on as much as possible. What temperature do you turn off the taps? Do you have to do anything else?
What about the hose? Does it need special care?
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Cécile Stelzer Johnson wrote: But I now have a walk behind battery operated Snow Joe snowblower that surprised me with how long it could last [about 2 hours on "fast"] and how far it could throw snow [25 ft]. The snow was not real fluffy either! It has two 40 Volt lithium batteries. Metal blades, metal scoop... The advantage of a snow blower is that it actually throws the snow far off the path and up over embankments. [Don't aim it at any windows, just in case]. I discovered also that when the battery gets low, you can *either* throw snow *or* limp back home with the drive engaged, so you won't get stranded. Nice feature. (Just so you know, I'm only a satisfied customer and do not get paid for this 'plug'). As soon as you are done, remove the battery and recharge. Do not leave any lithium battery outside, of course. Even my hubby who always wants the biggest, the strongest motor he can get is impressed with my "little snowblower". It takes a lot to impress him.
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Jay Angler wrote:We have what's called a "lever yard hydrant" in one location on our property and I wish we had more. Eg. https://www.homehardware.ca/en/lever-yard-hydrant-with-5-bury-depth/p/3230499
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Mike Jay wrote:If a front wheel drive van or car was a barrier to driving in the winter, about 1/3rd of the population of WI would never be able to leave their house. Many of those people get by without chains or dedicated winter tires. So you can certainly manage if you're careful. If you absolutely need to drive your van through 6" of snow (on the road) the chains would be worth putting on. If the snow/shush is near the ground clearance of your vehicle, you're risking it. If there's some ice or packed snow, just drive carefully (grandma holding soup).
Mike Jay wrote:
Cécile Stelzer Johnson wrote: But I now have a walk behind battery operated Snow Joe snowblower that surprised me with how long it could last [about 2 hours on "fast"] and how far it could throw snow [25 ft]. The snow was not real fluffy either! It has two 40 Volt lithium batteries. Metal blades, metal scoop... The advantage of a snow blower is that it actually throws the snow far off the path and up over embankments. [Don't aim it at any windows, just in case]. I discovered also that when the battery gets low, you can *either* throw snow *or* limp back home with the drive engaged, so you won't get stranded. Nice feature. (Just so you know, I'm only a satisfied customer and do not get paid for this 'plug'). As soon as you are done, remove the battery and recharge. Do not leave any lithium battery outside, of course. Even my hubby who always wants the biggest, the strongest motor he can get is impressed with my "little snowblower". It takes a lot to impress him.
Hey Cecile, which model of Snow Joe did you get?
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Nails are sold by the pound, that makes sense.
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Hmmm .. sounds as if you need a human-sized "pop door" in or beside your vehicle gate. I met one of those in Japan decades ago. It was a small door that did not go right down to the ground (think 18 inches to 2 feet above the ground?) that was inside a much larger gate. People could open and get through the small gate without having to go to the trouble of opening the large gate which could handle vehicles etc. I can see the advantage of having it above the common snowfall height, but also, just because the large gate can only open one way, doesn't mean you couldn't design the 'pop door' to open the opposite or both ways. Generally, the step-over height is not included in the "door within a door" seen elsewhere, because it could be considered a tripping hazard, but you've got a specific reason for doing this so if you're worried, make sure you design it to be locked!the vehicle gate can't realistically be changed
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Nails are sold by the pound, that makes sense.
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Kenneth Elwell wrote:File under planning ahead/observation/correcting or avoiding mistakes...
If you have gates that you need to use in the winter, make them swing towards your approach (or both ways). Pushing the gate open against/into the snow to get through (if that's even possible) puts a lot of stress on the gate, and only really works in light powdery snow.
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Yes, I guessed that slope +/- wildlife exclusion was the issue as we've got a similar gate. I used some old swing-set chain and a long piece of salvaged 4 inch diameter black plastic pipe to make a "rolling barrier" for the bottom of the gate to keep some Muscovy ducks in our field. I don't think this solution would help in your situation, but for some people who have a gate and generally don't get more than 4-5 inches of snow at a time, it might do the job if they raised the gate and put some sort of a "flap" on the bottom. The advantage of the old sewer pipe is that it is relatively light and slippery, and it was recycled (read "free").it has almost zero ground clearance to a granite threshhold when shut (for small wildlife exclusion)
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Lorinne Anderson: Specializing in sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20 years.
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A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
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r ranson wrote:
John Weiland wrote:
r ranson wrote:what are car chains and would they be a better option than winter tires?
Seem
s a shame to buy special tires if we only get winter one or two weeks every other year....
What kind of vehicle(s) do you have?
Front-wheel drive van.
Lorinne Anderson: Specializing in sick, injured, orphaned and problem wildlife for over 20 years.
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
-Robert A. Heinlein
Cécile Stelzer Johnson wrote:
Jan White wrote:Old sweater sleeves make great gaiters. Cuff gets pulled up the leg, arm goes down over the boot.
Because I'm past 70, I don't see myself doing that much shoveling. Done my share: Been there, done that. Nobody cheered. If I had to now, I'd do it in small increments, like an hour here, and hour there.
I'd recommend a big, wide push shovel. Not the dinky plastic crap shovels with one handle they sell in big box stores. No. I mean the big metal scoop with the big stirrup handle that reaches both ends of the scoop. Unfortunately, they are getting rarer than hen's teeth. If I did not have one, I'd go to a metal fabricator to get one made! Here is the only one I found, and it is well worth the $80!
https://scoopsandrakes.com/
This tool is so nice: I can get under the snowbank, push down on the handle and break a big chunk [way too big for lifting] and sled it, pull it to where I want it, turn it around and lift the handle to unload. This is also what I use when I need to remove litter in the chicken coop and drag said litter to my fruit trees, so it gets a lot of use. It needs to be strong, good quality, well made.
r ranson wrote:How do I sharpen the edge on the plastic snow shovel?
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roberta mccanse wrote:Snow in northwestern Montana is pretty deep this tear. We are dealing with it despite the upgrade driveway from my Earth sheltered home. Biggest problem is that snow and slush gets packed into the wheel wells of my 2006 Subaru Forester. Frozen hard it rubs on my all weather tires. We chop it out but it quickly accumulates again. The car can plow through big drifts of new fallen snow (we got 30 inches two weeks ago) but I worry about damage to the tires from the build up. Words of wisdom?
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roberta mccanse wrote:Thanks for your response. We also have an ice breaker on a pole and, as you day, we use it carefully to remove the build up. I am wondering if our problem is related to the structure of the car, or the tires, etc. Our country road is plowed and sanded pretty well to accommodate the school buses. It may be that the sand includes some element intended to thaw the ice etc. In the meantime, more snow on the way. Easy does it.
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