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Tiny House Cook Stove and Heater  RSS feed

 
pollinator
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Dale, my Full Masonry Cook Stove has one of these over the oven which is a true bell.  It works great for holding large pots of water warm.  Last year my little shack was unfinished and freezing and I kept big pots of water on top for more mass.
 
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Matt Walker wrote:No concern at all in my opinion.  I've been using these with full heat for years in many builds, and keep in mind these are from UL listed stoves that have a 220v 1800w+ coil directly underneath them, insulated below with ceramic fiber.  You can put a 5 gallon soup pot full of cold water on one set on high and there is no risk.  If these could break from thermal shock at temperatures we can reach with wood fire they would never pass UL certification.  Our fires are far less stress than the normal use they are designed to see, in my opinion.  I've never heard of one breaking from thermal shock, or even breaking at all other than the one lone post with no details.  I can only assume the top was compromised prior, or perhaps was not of the same origin or material.  They would not be in households all over the country if they were not deemed safe for extreme heat and large thermal variances across their surface.  Nothing at all to worry about in my opinion. 



Hi Matt. I posted the 'Caution about using glass tops' topic and I did point out that several forum members have used them successfully with no problems. I wasn't trying to worry people, I was just recounting my own rather frightening personal experience. The point I was making was to check very carefully that the top you choose is up the job, as you have outlined - don't just assume that any glass top that's had a heating element in it will work OK in our applications.

The glass top in question was from an old, slim 'stand alone' electric hob which probably dated back to the 1980's or 90's. It had two 'heatzones' (two elements and a very thin layer of fibre insulation underneath)and was around 9mm thick.  The 6mm steel plate that I normally use above the riser on my 'J Tube' RMH shows temps of over 375 degrees C (measured with one of those laser gun sensors) and this was obviously too much for this particular piece of 'glass'.

Keep up the good work Matt and thanks for posting your builds and experiments on here. :)
 
Matt Walker
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John, no worries man!  Thanks so much for coming back with some details.  I suspected it was probably from an older stand alone, and I greatly appreciate you detailing that.  The ones I like and have had success with are from modern electric radiant four burner models.  The glass is a Schott product, like the glass in box stove fronts, called Ceram or something along those lines depending on where you are.  They usually are labelled as such in a corner of the top.  I recently speculated that perhaps induction tops were not up to the heat, but someone on the rocket stove forum let me know they had one from an induction stove that had the same labeling, so I will assume that you can find these on both radiant and induction stoves. 

Thanks again for the further info.  We should let people know that the place to find glass is on a full size modern stove, not a stand alone hob or anything using older unmarked glass.  The ones I have salvaged have been probably 90's era at the oldest.
 
Matt Walker
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In other news, I broke the heck out of my website being a rookie and the cart is currently broken!  Stand by gang, I've recruited someone smarter than me to try to fix my divots.
 
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Matt Walker wrote:Kathleen, the Full Cook Stove footprint is roughly 55" x 35".  The Tiny Cook Stove footprint is roughly 43" x 40". 

As for heat and cooking in summer, well, I suppose it depends.  You can cook with the stove top using the bypass and thus not heat the brick, so it's not impossible.  That said, lighting a fire every time you cook when you don't need it for warmth will get tiresome, thus my electric range as well.  These days I'm in a smaller space and keep a single portable electric burner on the counter top to cook with when I don't want to light a fire.  Hope that helps.




I remembered another question -- what clearances are needed around the stove?  From combustibles and from non-combustibles.

Thanks!

Kathleen
 
garden master
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Hello Matt. I've enjoyed the quality of your videos. Thank you for not walking around and stumbling with your camera.

I've got an idea for a video or just a portion of one of your videos, that I think would help newcomers to appreciate the efficiency.

I'd like to see some sort of common container, that everyone can relate to, and have it filled with wood. Then, go about a day of cooking and heating, and show how much wood was consumed in a full day. Perhaps it could be measured with 5 gallon buckets, or a standard size laundry basket. It might be nice to use just hardwood or just softwood, to illustrate things.
 
Kathleen Sanderson
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Dale Hodgins wrote:Hello Matt. I've enjoyed the quality of your videos. Thank you for not walking around and stumbling with your camera.

I've got an idea for a video or just a portion of one of your videos, that I think would help newcomers to appreciate the efficiency.

I'd like to see some sort of common container, that everyone can relate to, and have it filled with wood. Then, go about a day of cooking and heating, and show how much wood was consumed in a full day. Perhaps it could be measured with 5 gallon buckets, or a standard size laundry basket. It might be nice to use just hardwood or just softwood, to illustrate things.



This is a really good idea!  And a good time of year to do it!

Kathleen
 
Matt Walker
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Thanks for the great comments all!  Dale, clearances depend on which face of the stove, but the backside can be 4" from combustibles.  The sides and front are heating areas and should have at least 12" clearance from combustibles.  Non-combustibles only need airspace so there is no direct thermal coupling.

As for the wood use, while it is interesting I find it useless.  Pauls "1/2 cord" statements are a great example.  We don't get the details of how he lives, time spent in the house, what one considers comfortable, home construction, weather, fuel type and condition, and on and on. I believe these are worse than useless as indicators of performance as they can deceive people who only grasp the basics and thus cause much misunderstanding and false expectations. The Tiny Cook runs at better than 85% efficiency, which is better than almost any wood fired heater you can purchase.  These stoves are at the top of the food chain regarding efficiency, regardless of how little or much wood one uses.

For example, it's 85° in here right now.  If I was trying to impress with wood use I'd put on a sweater. Hope that helps.
 
Dale Hodgins
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I didn't realize you had done any efficiency testing. My first post to permies back 6.5 years ago, was regarding creating a simple test of efficiency, by heating water with a known quantity of wood which contains a known amount of energy. Then it would have been a simple matter of measuring the temperature rise, to see how much heat could be transferred to the water.

At that time, there was a lot on YouTube and other places on the net, making extraordinary claims concerning wood usage, but nobody claiming to have conducted any such test.

Edit -  I checked out Google Images come in looking for a clear ceramic cooktop. Found several that are called White, although there seems to be clear portions. I wonder if the white, is a coating on an otherwise clear piece of material. The one pictured comes from Ikea. I'm assuming that this color would allow more light from the fire to be visible.
nutid-element-glass-ceramic-cooktop-white__0307967_PE428007_S4.jpg
[Thumbnail for nutid-element-glass-ceramic-cooktop-white__0307967_PE428007_S4.jpg]
 
Matt Walker
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Ok Permies!  I finally got the site fixed after my major screw up.  If anyone is still having issues, please let me know!  Thanks Gang!
 
Matt Walker
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Got another great testimonial from a customer today.  These totally make my week.

"All I have to compare it to is years and years of conventional wood stove burning, the little j tube I built last winter, and what is on the internet. It's at least 5 times more efficient than last years j tube and much more sturdy (structurally stable). The j tube literally crumbled apart during disassembly because of the different amounts of product in each layer and different amounts of heat exposure. Wood stoves require an unlimited amount of wood and somewhere to keep it which just isn't practical living in the city like I do. In real world application, it's a wet cold here in Portland and my place is poorly insulated against it. I have an electric furnace and while I can turn it up and stand in front of it, it isn't able to drive out the cold wet air that permeates everything right down to your bones. But your stove has no problem driving out the cold wet air. So it's not only warm in here, it's dry. That was my primary reason for building it and here are some of the criteria; it had to have a small foot print which it does, it had to be fuel efficient which it is, it had to produce very little pollution and it gets A+ in that. And finally, it needed to a decent cookstove which it is. And the icing on top is that this stove can be reproduced if and when I move. What's more, it's a great little project that requires very few tools and is quite fun to build. I used a jig saw, drill, portable cutoff saw, tin snips, screwdriver, hammer, and miscellaneous mortar tools. I just youtube how to cut bricks, which is really simple and easy. After it was all said and done, getting your stove plans which is already designed and tested is way cheaper and easier than starting from scratch which I know all about.
So you should feel good about this one Matt, Yeah, there's always somebody out there that can screw it up but for the most part, your average person who is into these kinds of projects will really enjoy building it and be surprised by how well they work. "
 
Kathleen Sanderson
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Matt, did that guy mention what kind of floor/foundation was under his stove?

Kathleen
 
Matt Walker
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He did not Kathleen, I'll see if I can find out though.
 
Kathleen Sanderson
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Matt Walker wrote:He did not Kathleen, I'll see if I can find out though.



Thanks!  I'm impressed with his report.

Kathleen
 
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Thanks Matt for all your work on this small version. It looks ideal to me with the oven and cooktop, plus the bonus of a viewable fire. What a great contribution to the wood heating and cooking world! Showing it to my partner tomorrow because I think it would work well for the 700 sq ft house we're planning to build.
 
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I want to go through everything again very carefully, but it looks as though with European sized ceramic fibre board, which is slightly larger at 1000mm x 1250mm (49.2" x 39.37" rather than 48" x 36"), it should be possible to make this with only TWO sheets. 

Which significantly reduces the cost. 

Here's a link to the online software I'm using, which is free unless you want all the bells and whistles on it - Free Online Panel Cut Optimizer - Optimalon Software

Edit to add - this only works if the long side is 1250mm, but some are only 1200mm, and that's not quite big enough. 

 
Always look on the bright side of life. At least this ad is really tiny:
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