Tiny House Cook Stove and Heater

Michael Linville wrote:I’m wondering if it’d work okay to scale this system down to a 4” one. I’m living in the foothills of the Himalayans, and the local stoves all have 4” flues. I would use it (at least for this season) solely for heat and some cooking. I won’t do the mass heater part or even the extra part for warming water. I don’t have a lot of room, and it’ll be freestanding in the middle of the room (I’ll move it at the end of the season). Basically, I’m thinking about building your riser-less core and adding a top to it (granite, concrete, or a big slab of rock).  I can get the ceramic fiber panels, and I’ll put a metal casing around the sides and bottom.  Do you see any red flags to this? I greatly appreciate your help, and I greatly appreciate you sharing this new system you’ve developed!

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;   The problem with a masonry stove and a traveling tiny house , is cracking...They are built with clay as mortar not cement.   I suspect that it could travel infrequently if driven carefully,. But ultimately I think any masonry would crack out on you.    That said, it is just my opinion...  with care it could travel just fine for years …
Matts designs are state of the art and just dang good looking to boot! I can see why you would like one!

Jordan Gonzales wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;   The problem with a masonry stove and a traveling tiny house , is cracking...They are built with clay as mortar not cement.   I suspect that it could travel infrequently if driven carefully,. But ultimately I think any masonry would crack out on you.    That said, it is just my opinion...  with care it could travel just fine for years …
Matts designs are state of the art and just dang good looking to boot! I can see why you would like one!

I guess that's my question. Is there a way to design one to be suitable for my needs? Are there sturdier construction options?

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;
  No matter what you use it will be a gamble about cracking.
The only thing that might hold up is true refractory cement (not cheap , fire clay $7.00 a bag, refractory cement $70-100 a bag...)  I'm sure it would do better than a clay mortar but you would want to dive very carefully AND I would keep materials on hand to repair if necessary.

I hate to even say this (being a huge RMH proponent)  but … if your moving your house frequently, than a small cast iron (metal) stove might be a better choice to start with.


At some point in the future you may find your mobile house is less mobile and you might feel safer building a masonry stove.

Satamax Antone wrote:

Jordan Gonzales wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;   The problem with a masonry stove and a traveling tiny house , is cracking...They are built with clay as mortar not cement.   I suspect that it could travel infrequently if driven carefully,. But ultimately I think any masonry would crack out on you.    That said, it is just my opinion...  with care it could travel just fine for years …
Matts designs are state of the art and just dang good looking to boot! I can see why you would like one!

I guess that's my question. Is there a way to design one to be suitable for my needs? Are there sturdier construction options?

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jordan;
  No matter what you use it will be a gamble about cracking.
The only thing that might hold up is true refractory cement (not cheap , fire clay $7.00 a bag, refractory cement $70-100 a bag...)  I'm sure it would do better than a clay mortar but you would want to dive very carefully AND I would keep materials on hand to repair if necessary.

I hate to even say this (being a huge RMH proponent)  but … if your moving your house frequently, than a small cast iron (metal) stove might be a better choice to start with.


At some point in the future you may find your mobile house is less mobile and you might feel safer building a masonry stove.

Myself, i see a solution.


Minnie mouse, X2




http://donkey32.proboards.com/thread/2368/peter-bergs-minnie-mouse-houses

Well, in the following thread, you see the metal "home heating fuel tanks" that i use. I bet there is aplenty of tanks like this everywhere in the world.

https://permies.com/t/44806/Cobbling-workshop-heater

Find yourself one of the right size for your vehicle. Line the walls with dry stacked bricks. And hold there in place with rebar grid, like the concrete floor reinforcements. Or even with tacked steel plate. Then, you can drive at whatever spped you want. The bricks will move slightly, but never fall!  Same treatement for the "burner" made out of a metal casing, heavy bricks and a five minute riser. That would be hard to break! And will keep it's air tightness.

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Sarah;
Hopefully, Matt will see your post and reply.
If not you can message him at his website.  https://walkerstoves.com/

I have seen a J-Tube built inside an old cook stove before, (yours is very cool-looking).
I'm sure with enough reworking, one of Matt's cores could be built inside.
It might be a lot more work than just building a brick cook stove using Matt's core.

Another thought might be to use your stove by building a J-Tube inside of it and using it in an outdoor kitchen for summer use.


Using it outside is definitely an option I am considering but have absolutely no idea how to go about it! Do you have a link to any resources? The other option I was thinking of was using the front piece (it's sooo pretty!) inside with a ceramic glass cooktop and build a j tube outside for the stove top but I'd really like to incorprate an oven into both stoves.