Install a valve in an existing pipe - plumbing.straw.valve PEP BB

I had a leak in my piping right by an ancient gate valve.  So while fixing the leak I replaced the gate valve with a full flow ball valve.

Here is my submission for the Install a Valve in Existing Pipe - Straw (1 pt) - Plumbing BB.

To document the completion of the BB, I have provided:
1  - the piping before you start - before I disconnected the kitchen faucet supply lines
                Note: the corroded gate valve allows about 2 gallons of water per hour through the valve and the assembly/connection
                         to copper is corroded and unlikely to unscrew with damaging the copper so I chose not to remove the ball valve
2  - the project halfway through - gate valve installed and closed (no more leaking cold water)
3  - the finished project - reassembled  :)
4  - the backside of the assembly showing corrosion on the Gate valve and closed ball valve

Here is my submission for the Install a Valve in Existing Pipe - Straw (duplicate) - Plumbing BB.

To document the completion of the BB, I have provided:
 - the piping before you start - this toilet does not have a working shut off valve
 - the project halfway through - compression fitting and ball valve installed
 - the finished project - reassembled  :)

This is part of a bigger project to replace most of the plumbing in my house. The existing plumbing is leaky, corroded, copper pipe with very few fixings. It mostly hangs of the joists in the basement.

I recently renovated the downstairs bathroom / toilet under the stairs. I replaced the 1/2 inch copper with 3/4 inch PEX. It is my intention to extend the hot and cold pipes to the second floor converting a small bedroom to an ensuite bathroom, which is why I put in the higher capacity pipe.

I shut of the water. Cut a section of copper pipe and added a T section. I had previously drilled 1 1/4 inch holes through the joists to thread the PEX. I installed a shut off valve so I could carry on working on the plumbing upstream with minimal disruption for the rest of the family. It will also enable me to shut off the branch when I extend upstairs.


Holes drilled for hot and cold 3/4 inch PEX


Valve added to section


Valve installed and connected to existing water pipe with a new T section


Second valve installed using crimp system. Both valves open and working as intended

Initially I used sharkbite system. It’s expensive and awkward in tight spaces. I’m new to plumbing in the US and this was what seemed like a good idea at the time. I then discovered the crimp system which is cheaper and preferable. This is the system I will use going forward.

Two years in a row the plumbing has frozen and burst in this building. After the first time, I shut off the supply but that also shut off the supply to a livestock tank that I would prefer remain functional in the winter.  So I installed a shut off valve in a water supply line just to this building today. Now I will be able to shut off the supply to this building without also shutting off the supply to the livestock tank.

I replaced my utility sink, faucet, supply lines, and both shut off valves today. Here are the pictures of the cold supply shut off valve.