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This is a badge bit (BB) that is part of the PEP curriculum.  Completing this BB is part of getting the straw badge in Plumbing.

In this Badge Bit, you will install a valve in an existing plumbing pipe.  Often a house is plumbed in a curious way that leaves something to be desired.  Like a valve!  Let's install one!

Here's one where they're replacing an existing valve:


To complete this BB, the minimum requirements are:
  - install or replace a valve that is part of a plumbing system
  - solder, pex, crimp, etc is fine as long as it's a permanent installation

To show you've completed this Badge Bit, provide proof of the following as pics or video (less than two minutes):
  - the piping before you start
  - the project halfway through
  - the finished project
COMMENTS:
 
steward
Posts: 13403
Location: Northern WI (zone 4)
3845
4
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Approved submission
I had a leak in my piping right by an ancient gate valve.  So while fixing the leak I replaced the gate valve with a full flow ball valve.
Valve-that-s-older-than-me.jpg
Valve that's older than me
Valve that's older than me
Valve-on-the-floor-with-some-parts-and-tools.jpg
Valve on the floor with some parts and tools
Valve on the floor with some parts and tools
Random-photo.jpg
Random photo
Random photo
New-full-flow-ball-valve.jpg
New full flow ball valve
New full flow ball valve
Staff note (jordan barton) :

I hereby certify this BB complete!

 
gardener
Posts: 1309
Location: Washington State
796
3
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Approved submission
Here is my submission for the Install a Valve in Existing Pipe - Straw (1 pt) - Plumbing BB.

To document the completion of the BB, I have provided:
1  - the piping before you start - before I disconnected the kitchen faucet supply lines
                Note: the corroded gate valve allows about 2 gallons of water per hour through the valve and the assembly/connection
                         to copper is corroded and unlikely to unscrew with damaging the copper so I chose not to remove the ball valve
2  - the project halfway through - gate valve installed and closed (no more leaking cold water)
3  - the finished project - reassembled  :)
4  - the backside of the assembly showing corrosion on the Gate valve and closed ball valve

1.JPG
before
before
2.JPG
during
during
3.JPG
after-valve open
after-valve open
4.JPG
after from different perspective - valve closed
after from different perspective - valve closed
Staff note (jordan barton) :

I hereby certify this badge bit complete, along with your new plumbing air badge!

 
Opalyn Rose
gardener
Posts: 1309
Location: Washington State
796
3
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Approved submission
Here is my submission for the Install a Valve in Existing Pipe - Straw (duplicate) - Plumbing BB.

To document the completion of the BB, I have provided:
 - the piping before you start - this toilet does not have a working shut off valve
 - the project halfway through - compression fitting and ball valve installed
 - the finished project - reassembled  :)
1.JPG
old copper valve does not work
old copper valve does not work
2.JPG
existing pipe and replacement parts
existing pipe and replacement parts
3.JPG
cutting pipe - had to cut again
cutting pipe - had to cut again
4.JPG
installing compression fitting
installing compression fitting
5.JPG
valve installed
valve installed
6.JPG
plumbing reassembled :)
plumbing reassembled :)
Staff note (gir bot) :

Mike Haasl approved this submission.

 
gardener
Posts: 1495
Location: Hudson Valley, New York
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This is part of a bigger project to replace most of the plumbing in my house. The existing plumbing is leaky, corroded, copper pipe with very few fixings. It mostly hangs of the joists in the basement.

I recently renovated the downstairs bathroom / toilet under the stairs. I replaced the 1/2 inch copper with 3/4 inch PEX. It is my intention to extend the hot and cold pipes to the second floor converting a small bedroom to an ensuite bathroom, which is why I put in the higher capacity pipe.

I shut of the water. Cut a section of copper pipe and added a T section. I had previously drilled 1 1/4 inch holes through the joists to thread the PEX. I installed a shut off valve so I could carry on working on the plumbing upstream with minimal disruption for the rest of the family. It will also enable me to shut off the branch when I extend upstairs.


Holes drilled for hot and cold 3/4 inch PEX


Valve added to section


Valve installed and connected to existing water pipe with a new T section


Second valve installed using crimp system. Both valves open and working as intended

Initially I used sharkbite system. It’s expensive and awkward in tight spaces. I’m new to plumbing in the US and this was what seemed like a good idea at the time. I then discovered the crimp system which is cheaper and preferable. This is the system I will use going forward.
Staff note (gir bot) :

Mike Haasl approved this submission.

 
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