S Bengi wrote:The metal tube seems very like it would conduct alot of heat and the lids don"t seem air tight
Julia Winter wrote:This is a cool idea! Are you building an earthbag structure?
Eliot Mason wrote:Your idea reminds me of these: https://www.solatube.com/residential
install the tube at a slight angle to the inside, add a weep hole so any moisture can drain away. Moisture caught in between will result in condensation on the glass, mold inside, etc.
Use foil tape to seal the seam in the tube.
Cooking glass is tough, but I have no idea what its light transmission properties are. One of the expense of modern glazing are coatings that control the emissivity - locking in heat and blocking it from the outside. These are kind of miraculous. Will it matter for your idea? I don't know if it will matter giving the mass of the structure and the relatively small glazing area.
Rob Lineberger wrote:Foil tape is great but I'm not sure which seam you mean. The tube has no seam, it's one piece.
Eliot Mason wrote:
Doh! you caught me responding without completely inspecting your post! (had to get to dinner ...) Using a solid tube makes a lot of sense, I was assuming you were using standard HVAC tube that snaps together. Your clever scavenging avoids that altogether, and is a much better material for gaskets too.
I like the idea of gaskets instead of sealing with silicon... easy to get into and clean/replace your dessicant. With rice, you'll want to use it to pull the water out of the air, but not leave it there! Rice + Water = Something growing.
One last thing ... woodworkers use a fair number of brass or stainless knurled nuts on jigs and on some finished pieces. What's that?! https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/knobs/cabinet/102406-veritas-stainless-steel-knurled-insert-knobs I've got a bunch of brass ones somewhere. These are generally nice because unlike a standard nut you can just use your fingers to turn it. The point is, pay attention to the thread on your threaded rod and you have a lot of options. I'd think 1/4-20 would be optimal, and then you can use a little block of wood or a branch or something with these https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/hardware/fasteners/quick-connect-hardware/44236-1-4-20-quick-connect-plain-insert-nuts to make a very inexpensive and neat cover.
Don't enjoy all this by yourself! Please share your progress - I think there is a potential application of these as skylights and in other thick-walled buildings.
William Bronson wrote:Great idea, presented well.
I wonder if you could create a stable vacuum between the two lids for exceptional insulation value.
Items inside the window could one manipulated without opening it via magnets.
Jay Angler wrote:
You could be right about the earthbag walls sucking up the heat/cold, but it occurs to me that if you use a small section of your pipe near the outside edge of the wall, then use just a small amount of same diameter plastic pipe for about an inch and then the rest of the way the metal pipe, and seal the connections with silicon, you would have what's referred to as a "thermal break"? This might stop some of the cold/heat going either way?
Over all this seems like a great option for some locations. Turning the idea into a home-made solar tube is interesting also - there are sometimes places that really need just a little natural light for safety or so that you don't have to switch on a light every time you go through the area.
I will agree that these just won't do for emergency egress, so that still must be planned for. Even if your house is made of dirt which can't burn, most houses are filled with things that even if they resist burning, can create toxic smoke very quickly. I just don't know why proper, functional window shutters went out of style when they make so much sense for storm, excessive cold or excessive heat protection. My sisters have roll up shutters on many of their windows. They're not as pretty as wooden ones, but they sure help their heating and cooling bills and make their houses more comfortable and the windows are large enough to climb out of.
I also feel that many windows are actually *much* larger than they need to be. A well-designed smaller window in the right spot can be just as enchanting as sliding glass doors and yet far more efficient, but that's sort of off-topic.
This is why I like Rob's concept - with the threaded rod I can open it up, clean it out, put fresh rice down, and if I do so on the lowest humidity day I can, it might be good for some time. We've got two south windows in our second-hand home which have done exactly what Rebecca describes - they've got hazy stuff on the inside of a sealed double-pained window and there's nothing I can do about it.
After a year, or at most two, the moisture inside will have caught dust, so that even if the moisture dries out, the glass is hazy. Then the little bugs get in.
Just make sure you aren't testing the quality of the original wall which was *not* built to support a dirt-filled box! I'm sure you'll find a way to support the box safely, but please "spread the load" as my engineering son would say.
I need to situate one side of the window exposed to the outdoors and one side exposed to the indoors as if it were in a real earthbag home. The only way I can do that is to replace one of the existing windows in my home with this test ADEW. It is the right size to fit into my existing window frame once I remove the window. Then I can create a mini-earthbag wall inside it, thereby creating what I hope is a realistic test of the window.
How wide are earth-bag walls? I'm more familiar with cob or straw bale, and if this idea were to be used there, I would definitely want to be able to remove that outside piece of glass as trying to reach through the tunnel to clean the far end would be "difficult". We're not talking a typical window here that's at least 2 ft by 3 ft (I've met few house windows smaller than that). We are seriously talking porthole size as that's the typical size of a pot lid, so reaching the far end could be challenging if you aren't an orangutan - and maybe even if you are! If this idea works and it's done right, this may need minimal cleaning and rarely give trouble, but we've had a few impressive storms with driving rain so if it were me, I would find ways to keep my options open. Certainly having the far side of the window supported by clips such as are use for hanging light shades from ceiling fixtures make a lot of sense, as then one could remove the inside glass without needing a helper outside.
The only thing that comes to mind is a large ring around the perimeter of the pane, like in a porthole, that could be anchored into the outer wall. This is essentially a permanent outer pane. Then the inner pane could be hinged and you could open and close it at will.