• Post Reply
  • Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic

Self-seeding vegetables

 
Mike Turner
Posts: 302
Location: Upstate SC
6
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
One of the hallmarks of a Fukuoka style vegetable garden is that many (most) of the vegetables self-seed themselves and eventually evolve into half-wild landraces adapted to the local growing conditions and pests.

That's the direction I have been taking my South Carolina zone 7 garden, allowing strong, healthy specimens of non-hybrid vegetable plants to scatter seed for the next generation of veggies.  I'm trying to build up the population of dormant veggie seeds in the soil so an increasing proportion of the "weed" seedlings that pop up in the beds will be half-wild vegetables. 

So far, I have had great success with carrots, seed matured and scattered in late spring remains dormant all through the heat of the summer and germinates when the temps cool off in late summer.

Lemon cucumber is also self seedling well, this summer's lemon cuc production was all produced by self sown seedlings that came up at the proper time in the spring for cucs to start growing and beat all of my seeded cucs to maturity.

Matt's Wild Cherry tomato has completely naturalized in my garden, coming up everywhere.  I just weed them out from whichever parts of the garden that I don't want cherry tomatoes to grow.  They have even spread into the local pasture where they provide quick snacks when I pass by.  They also come up in the cold frames and grow slowly all winter long producing by far my earliest spring tomatoes, weeks ahead of the transplanted tomatoes.

Leaf amaranth is another that I haven't had to seed for the last few years, coming up every spring on its own and corn salad, its winter counterpart, does the same in the fall for winter greens.

Lettuce is starting to become a self-sown half-wild winter annual in the garden, producing some interesting variants as it adapts to local conditions.  Last winter one lettuce plant went through 8F lows unprotected with no damage and turned into a monster in the spring, producing seven 5 to 8 feet high flowering stalks in late spring/early summer.  Its progeny are starting to pop up now around the garden.

Seminole winter squash/pumpkin self seeds and it is just a matter of thinning the many seedlings down to those plants I allow to grow to maturity.

I have started domesticating wild garlic in my garden for use in the fall and winter, taking advantage of a hardy edible weed.

Other then that, I had some self-seeding success with pole beans, cowpeas, adzuki beans, and various types of onions (green ,bulbing, anual, and perennial).

It'll be interesting to see where this experiment goes, but its getting to the point where many of the seedlings that appear in a bed when I harvest or remove a crop are self sown vegetables whose seeds are released from dormancy along with the weeds once the root competition of the extablished crop is removed.
 
Leah Sattler
Posts: 2603
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I tend to have many volunteers. cucurbits are notorious although they tend to cross pollinate. I should probably just plant one variety. Peas, potatoes, tomatoes and especially..okra.....okra okra everywhere! I wish I were more fond of okra. 
 
Jennifer Smith
Posts: 714
Location: Zone 5
1
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
This is great.  I hope this thread keeps going with ideas and kinds of plants that work well.  I can add the luffa gourd, they are trying to take over the house in Alabama, vieing with the sweet potatoes for their bed too.  Sweet potatoes are perennial there, zone 8.  I am not sure what all I can do here...but have all the room to try.

Oh also, I plan to try eating the small luffa gourds as a friend from the Phillipeans says they are very good.  All I know is that they are very handy around the house.

...thought of a new topic!
 
rose macaskie
Posts: 2134
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
listentohorses you really do grow lufers, i thought they grew in the sea.
  This here forum provides a new way for the permies Brenda Groth is worried about, affected by the crash,  to make money producing their own seed. Seed that is good for permi gardens. agri rose macaskie.
 
Jennifer Smith
Posts: 714
Location: Zone 5
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Anyone wants luffa seeds just send me a self addressed envelope and I will happily share.  Usefull for scrubbing, packing, and also as a drying rack in my soap dish.  I have this trick where I turn them inside out and they are even scrubbier (for stuck on foods and such) I am lookin now for a photo, pretty yellow flowers and big leaves, and what a climber!
 
Leah Sattler
Posts: 2603
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
ground cherries! they are weedy self seeders.
 
Jennifer Smith
Posts: 714
Location: Zone 5
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Tell me more about ground cherries, they grew wild on my old MO farm...I never knew they were good for anything. I bet I could get some for seed if I wanted there still.
 
Mike Turner
Posts: 302
Location: Upstate SC
6
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
In his book, Fukuoka mentioned that daikon radishes and mustards were self-seeding in his vegetable gardens.  Anybody have any luck in getting these to be self-sustaining in their garden.
 
Leah Sattler
Posts: 2603
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
listenstohorses wrote:
Tell me more about ground cherries, they grew wild on my old MO farm...I never knew they were good for anything. I bet I could get some for seed if I wanted there still.
[/quote


ground cherry jelly is mostly what I have seen them used for. they must have been planted here at some point because they came up all over the garden at my new house. my mother has them in her garden and I believe she only planted them once and they just continue to self sow. I tried to eliminate them this year so I can start over with a new or cultivated variety that is a little tastier hopefully. I think that is the biggest risk with an all self seeding garden. nature may pick the hardiest ones but doesn't neccessarily pick the tastiest ones!http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/ground_cherry.htm

 
Brenda Groth
pollinator
Posts: 4434
Location: North Central Michigan
10
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
hmmm Brenda here and I didn't know i was worried..oh well

We have a lot of things self seed here..i'm the kind of person that is lazy about deadheading anything and i always leave a bit of stuff that most  people don't leave..to self seed.

I was trying to let my lettuce go to seed as i wanted it all over the garden next spring but my husband is a relentless weeder..

Also i tend to chop off the seed tops of my plants in the fall..and spread them hither and yon among the by ways and ditches as we have a lot of field and roadside ditches here..several of which are growing wild asparagus, daylillies, wildflowers and wild grapes and clematis..

not much mention was made of wildflowers although this is a vegetable post..but we attempt to spread the flowers along the road ditches in our area..for the birds butterflies and wildlife (deer esp love hollyhocks and mallow family)..

I also let a lot of herbs self seed, like dill and parsley, let some peas go to seed so we can get early spring peas..always have tomato seedlings come up ..i tend to throw any tomato that has a bad spot hither and yon in my garden..esp late in the fall..and we get baby tomato and pepepr plants that come up..and then there is of course the bounty that grows from our compsot pile.

 
Joel Hollingsworth
pollinator
Posts: 2103
Location: Oakland, CA
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I had never heard of groundcherries before.

I looked it up.  Wikipedia says there are perennial varieties, and that the Cape Gooseberry has a particularly interesting, fruity flavor.

A picture caught my eye, and sure enough one variety is the tomatillo. I grew up eating tomatillos: they're great for salsa.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physalis
 
                                        
Posts: 8
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I heart mache (corn salad) and dandelions and good king henry to eat.
All self seed.
 
Jennifer Smith
Posts: 714
Location: Zone 5
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Another thread reminded me that Amaranth went wild on us so we should add that to the list.
 
Brenda Groth
pollinator
Posts: 4434
Location: North Central Michigan
10
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
don't know what the heck with the new guy..but

i had a thought about those self seeding carrots.

here we have a lot of wild queen annes lace..and there are poison hemlocks in some areas that i'm not sure but might crossbreed with carrots..so do be careful about your selfseeding carrots.

i'm sure there are other plants that might also crosspollinate with dangerous or useless plants ..foodwise..but this is the only one that came to mind immediately..
 
rose macaskie
Posts: 2134
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
my neighbors certainly let things go to seed to get seed for next year. agri rose macaskie.
 
rose macaskie
Posts: 2134
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
When i was looking for articles on organic farming i found several on how the seeds of big multinational firms, that produce seeds that produce crops but unfertile ones, these crops don't produce seed you can collect and use the next year had had such a devastating effect on the border line economies of these farmers who had i suppose planed using the seed for the next years crop instead of buying more  that there had been a lot of farmer suicides. Sad eh. the west is a wolf for the poorer parts of the world. This made some farmers go organic. 
        For Laura Ingalls Wilder fans there is the knowledge that in the old days farmers used to produce special crops for seed. Almanzo Ingalls has brought seed wheat with him from his fathers farm, seed he has specially cultivated on his fathers farm to use as seed and he does not want to share it out even  when the town suffers from a famine because the supply train, that is meant to bring food to the town does not get through, it is a year of such continuous blizzards that no train gets through until late in the spring. Almanzo prefers to risk his life going to buy another farmers wheat off him in the blizzards than to part with his seed wheat.
    In India scientist are building up  banks of rice seeds of different types of rice while there are still a lot of varieties, the multinational seed companies reduce the genetic bank of crop seeds so much by always selling the same type in enormous quantities that to build up a store of seed of different type has become necessary because are own farmers are no longer producing their own varieties that keep the number of varieties and the genetic variations high. agri rose macaskie.
 
Mike Turner
Posts: 302
Location: Upstate SC
6
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Brenda Groth wrote:
don't know what the heck with the new guy..but

i had a thought about those self seeding carrots.

here we have a lot of wild queen annes lace..and there are poison hemlocks in some areas that i'm not sure but might crossbreed with carrots..so do be careful about your selfseeding carrots.

i'm sure there are other plants that might also crosspollinate with dangerous or useless plants ..foodwise..but this is the only one that came to mind immediately..


There isn't any Queen Anne's lace or poison hemlock on my property, so they are unlikely to appear as seedlings in my garden.  I have never heard of Conium maculatum/Daucus carota hybrids.  If they could hybridize, you think it would have happened numerous times in the time that carrots have been domesticated, and that there would have been some old garden lore around about not growing carrots anywhere near poison hemlock.  Also Queen Anne's lace has thin, white roots with fine hairs on the stems/leaves and poison hemlock has larger, courser looking leaf.  My self-seeding carrots seedlings came up in the area around the parent plants or where I had scattered the perent's seed and have orange roots.  If Queen Anne's lace or poison hemlock seed had been in my garden soil's dormant seed bank, they could just as easily have germinated along with carrot seed scattered from a seed packet as from self-sown seed.  When I used to garden at my parent's, there were plenty of Queen Anne's lace seed in the soil that used to germinate along with carrot and any other vegetable seeds and had to be pulled, so I got very adept at distinguishing between carrot and Queen Anne's lace seedlings, even at a very small size.
 
Ken Peavey
steward
Posts: 2523
Location: FL
88
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I've got walking onions all over the place.  They come up every year, looks like a green lawn.  In the spring, I can fill a shopping bag with the bulbils.

Mint will take off.  It will take over and area and consume all the nitrogen in the soil.  I won't plant mint ever again unless it is in a container.  Also in the yard is Florida Betony, aka rattlesnake weed.  Its in the mint family, is edible raw or as a potherb.  I let it grow because it thrives in the cold months.  When the grass is brown, I have plenty of greens to offer the chickens.

This year I have arugula jumping up in a few spots.  I've not planted any in a couple years.  I'm not a big fan of it, but the chickens are.  I'll let it go for now.

 
                          
Posts: 66
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Zone 8 AL I have arugula volunteering in only two spots, mustard all over the place, and my mint is as planned filling a spot between concrete and not outside its bounds yet.  I actually think it's looking a little peaked after 3 years but it gets lots of nitrogen from my dogs peeing there (don't worry I'm not selling mint for tea, just pick the tallest ones for myself).  Loofah does some self seeding but usually not in the best place for growing (more selfseeds where I process the gourds than where they grow), and my volunteer sweet peas were miles ahead of my planted ones.  Garlic chives thrive and spread, regular chives don't like our heat.  Trying to get dill here but no luck yet.
 
                          
Posts: 27
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
i haven't gone through the entire thread yet, but i thought i would mention these two fabulous resources.  i call forest gardening permaculture on steroids.  organic steroids of course! LOL!:

"edible forest gardening" (two volumes)


http://www.amazon.com/Edible-Forest-Gardens-2-set/dp/1890132608/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262237514&sr=1-2

forest gardening is spectacular stuff.  ecologically centered design focusing on self-fertile and maintaining gardens.  emphasizes controlling 
and

"Perennial Vegetables"

http://www.amazon.com/Perennial-Vegetables-Artichokes-Gardeners-Delicious/dp/1931498407

not self seeding annuals...edible perennials!!  many uncommon plants

i hope i'm not being redundant. -nick
 
                          
Posts: 27
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
oops, didn't finish my thought...ADD, what can i say?

emphasizes directing ecosystem succesion with minimal maintainence and external inputs.  and if i can put my two cents in...Fukuoka is way too theoretical and impractical for serious food production...ok, maybe it works with rice, but tossing handfulls of carrot seeds to the wind just ain't gonna cut it.  no offense mr. fukuoka!  your still the bomb diddley. we need wild men like u to shake things up a bit!
 
                              
Posts: 461
Location: Inland Central Florida, USA
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Well, if you are gonna toss carrot seeds in the wind, make sure you toss them from about an inch above the dirt you want them to grow in!!! 

This fall, I took to maddly sprinkling seeds in my garden beds.  I just couldn't make myself make rows and crouch over to plant seeds and then cover them up in neat little lines.  So I sprinkled lots of seeds in the beds.  Beware if you do this, you might get lots and lots of certain things which might shade out other things.  Turnips are fast to germinate and grow fast enough to shade out many slower plants.

As to carrots I tend to sprinkle seeds all over the place where ever they might stay moist enough to germinate.  I never seem to get enough carrots from the garden since they take so long.

I don't have many plants self seeding or propagating yet.  Only a few but I'm interested in more.
Challenge is the other half gets on weeding binges where he will clear entire areas and I can rarely save even the plants I paid for when he gets like that.  How do I train him that he doesn't need to break his back weeding?
 
Jennifer Smith
Posts: 714
Location: Zone 5
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I want lots of carrots as they are horse treats.  I plan lots of fruit trees too but they take longer...It is so cold here
 
Travis Philp
gardener
Posts: 965
Location: ZONE 5a Lindsay Ontario Canada
8
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I've had success with the following... (I'll try to keep out the plants that have already been mentioned)

Dill
Kale (in B.C. province)
Swiss Chard (In B.C. province)
Lambs Quarters AKA Wild Spinach
Parsnip
Calendula
Endive
Radish (though the offspring don't tend to have sizeable roots in my experience)
peas (though the germination was minimal in my one time experiment)
Spinach
Mustard
Cilantro
Catnip
Sunflowers
Huckleberry (the one in the solanaceae family)



I've also heard that purple orach, arugula, and beets can self seed

 
Joel Hollingsworth
pollinator
Posts: 2103
Location: Oakland, CA
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
wolfmtn wrote:Fukuoka is way too theoretical and impractical for serious food production...ok, maybe it works with rice, but tossing handfulls of carrot seeds to the wind just ain't gonna cut it.   no offense mr. fukuoka!  your still the bomb diddley.


For certain definitions of "serious food production," he may well have been opposed to the very idea.

Have you read 1491? It makes a good case that a managed ecosystem can produce food enough for a fairly dense population, with predominantly hands-off methods.

http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200203/mann
 
Jeffrey Lando
Posts: 31
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
wolfmtn wrote:
i haven't gone through the entire thread yet, but i thought i would mention these two fabulous resources.  i call forest gardening permaculture on steroids.  organic steroids of course! LOL!:

"edible forest gardening" (two volumes)


http://www.amazon.com/Edible-Forest-Gardens-2-set/dp/1890132608/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1262237514&sr=1-2

forest gardening is spectacular stuff.  ecologically centered design focusing on self-fertile and maintaining gardens.  emphasizes controlling 
and

"Perennial Vegetables"

http://www.amazon.com/Perennial-Vegetables-Artichokes-Gardeners-Delicious/dp/1931498407

not self seeding annuals...edible perennials!!  many uncommon plants

i hope i'm not being redundant. -nick


Not at all.  Thanks for these great links man.  Especially the forest ecology.  I live in upstate NY so this fits perfect.  We have 14 acres of woods, ash, white oak, and others that I'm not knowledgeable enough to know what they are.  I just bought the 2 volumes and the perennials books..thanks they look great!
 
Paul Cereghino
gardener
Posts: 855
Location: South Puget Sound, Salish Sea, Cascadia, North America
15
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
basjoos wrote:
One of the hallmarks of a Fukuoka style vegetable garden is that many (most) of the vegetables self-seed themselves and eventually evolve into half-wild landraces adapted to the local growing conditions and pests.


How are you managing beds?  Permanent mulch, imported mulch, or tillage/clean cultivation?  What are your predominant weeds, and did you spend time controlling weeds before you switched to more naturalized recruitment?

I just haven't seen many good examples like this and I am thinking through how to start.

prc
 
Mike Turner
Posts: 302
Location: Upstate SC
6
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I use a sort of "managing the weeds" method where I keep cutting or pulling the most vigorous/invasive weeds and sheet composting them either on the bed or on the paths depending on the size/vigor of the vegetables growing there.  The less vigorous/invasive weeds I will leave in place, only cutting them back later in the season to keep them from seeding.  Meanwhile I am allowing selected vigorous vegetables to flower and scatter their seeds in the beds (those with nonshattering seed heads I break up and scatter seeds by hand).  I am working to build up the population of dormant vegetable seeds in my soil so hopefully over time most of the seedlings popping up on their own in the beds will be locally adapted semi-wild vegetables rather than weeds. 

I keep a living mulch of weeds growing on my beds whenever the veggies aren't growing and mulch around the veggies with cut/pulled weeds.  I only clean cultivate the tiny areas right around where I am planting seeds.  I don't import mulch onto my beds, but do add a thin layer of compost from time to time onto the beds (composted hay/sheep manure from off-site or sheet composted weeds/vegetables from the paths).  Most common summer weeds are bermuda, bahia, dallis, and Johnson grass and pokeweed.  Mock strawberry and rumex are the worst year around weeds.  Some of the weeds I haven't identified yet.  Although some consider them weeds, I consider wild garlic and chickweed to be useful edible plants that I grow in the winter along with the vegetables in my garden and although they aren't yet present, want to add lamb's quarters and purslane to that list.
 
Travis Philp
gardener
Posts: 965
Location: ZONE 5a Lindsay Ontario Canada
8
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
A note on lambs quarters, purslane, and mustard greens...

They receive good response from Chefs who I've given samples to, especially the lambs quarters (Calling it by its other common name 'wild spinach' makes a big difference)

I'm able to get $8-10/lb for purslane and lambs quarters, and $6-8 per lb for wild mustard greens, and also the mustard flowers.

I decided to let those three self seed and take over areas of my garden, which ended up paying off quite well. I highly recommend trying to market them if thats something you may be inclined to do.
 
Jamie Jackson
Posts: 200
Location: Zone 5b - 6a, Missouri Ozarks
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
What a great thread, still reading through it.  My potatoes and beans aren't doing well at all and I really counted on those for food this year.  So I'm going through trying to figure out what perennial things to plant and other things that will self seed. 

I need to focus on the basic and "meat" veggies.  Hardy things.  We have Jerusalem artichoke that is doing well and in a good spot.  The lettuce and arugula are going to seed now and I"ll let them re-seed themselves.  The lettuce is in a cold frame already. 

I like the idea of the winter squash too.  Thanks for all the links.
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
Posts: 1528
Location: zone 7
12
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
well i was going to post a big list of veggies that i let self propagate. but you all covered them pretty well.

one that i didnt see that i love is strawberries in the forest garden. dont cut the runners and let them be.  every year they establish a new "patch" which over time gives you patches that are of various ages. imo this increases yield tremendously. i eat strawberries from the end of may until november.

tomatillos which are related to ground cherries also self propagate. they are EXTREMELY drought hardy.
 
Jeanine Gurley
pollinator
Posts: 1399
Location: Midlands, South Carolina Zone 7b/8a
11
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
basjoos,

I am interested in the self seeding carrots.  My carrots only do well in deep loose earth.  That means that I have to either pile high some compost or dig deep in an area I want to plant them in.  I am doing both.

Are your self seeders making a good carrot?  Is all of the area that they are growing in deep loose earth?
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
Posts: 1528
Location: zone 7
12
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
my carrots self seed and i get better carrots than if i tried to plant them. funny thing is i get my best carrots from hard compacted soil, mostly in my pathways. when i have always been told to plant them in the loosest soil possible.

my advice, toss some veggie seed out and let them naturalize! use seedballs if its something birds like to eat.
 
Jeanine Gurley
pollinator
Posts: 1399
Location: Midlands, South Carolina Zone 7b/8a
11
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Well, it seems that everything else that I have learned on this forum has worked so I will let them seed at will.
 
Haru Yasumi
Posts: 102
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
speedyweedy wrote:
I heart mache (corn salad) and dandelions and good king henry to eat.
All self seed.


Mache self-seeds very readily and if I didn't water my garden here in Oregon it would still grow fine.  I find my patches of mache die down after flowering and leave a carpet of seeds in their wake.

Borage is a tenacious self-seeder and I've had quite a few leeks seed themselves this past year as well.
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
Posts: 1528
Location: zone 7
12
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Well, it seems that everything else that I have learned on this forum has worked so I will let them seed at will.


i prefer to collect the seed and scatter them myself. when falling naturally from the seed head they grow real close. which is fine when you have dozens of them self seeding. but for getting carrots into new areas its best to collect the seed and toss it out there.
 
Brenda Groth
pollinator
Posts: 4434
Location: North Central Michigan
10
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
having much better success with the selfseeding this year..but also having to fight hubby who wants to pull up the going to seed plants..(head injury)

I do have a bunch of plants producing seed right now though, and he has left them alone..woo hoo

hopefully they will self seed..a lot of greens and lettuces in the process.

I sure wish that a lot of the plants many of you mentioned would self seed here in our colder area..it would be so nice..I have occasionally had tomatoes self seed and squashes but not cucumbers, yet.

I would so love to not have to plant all the annuals every year !! right now my greenhouse is full of very tall lettuces and my fingers are crossed for some seeds !!, my chicory went to seed and i have been getting chard, radishes and arugula for a few years now..so nice.
 
Jamie Jackson
Posts: 200
Location: Zone 5b - 6a, Missouri Ozarks
1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Our arugula and lettuce are going to seed.  They are in good beds, so I'll just let them be.

This is something I don't understand about the self-seeding thing...  If you are supposed to rotate crops, how do you do that with self-seeding?
 
Jordan Lowery
pollinator
Posts: 1528
Location: zone 7
12
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
This is something I don't understand about the self-seeding thing...  If you are supposed to rotate crops, how do you do that with self-seeding?


there is no need to rotate in polyculture farming. the more diversity you have as far as species go. the less chance of disease rolling in and taking over.
 
Jamie Jackson
Posts: 200
Location: Zone 5b - 6a, Missouri Ozarks
1
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
But what about nutrient drain?  Do you have to know that for tomatoes, for example, they'll need more X this year because they've been in this spot for X years?  I thought that was more the reason for rotating.  This plant will deplete the Calcium, Nitrogen or whatever from this spot. 
 
  • Post Reply
  • Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic